TY  - JOUR
AU  - Filipović, M.
AU  - Lukić, Milica
AU  - Đorđević, S.
AU  - Krstonosić, Veljko
AU  - Pantelić, Ivana
AU  - Vuleta, Gordana
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2017
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/2839
AB  - OBJECTIVE: Consumers' demand for improved products' performance, alongside with the obligation of meeting the safety and efficacy goals, presents a key reason for the reformulation, as well as a challenging task for formulators. Any change of the formulation, whether it is wanted - in order to innovate the product (new actives and raw materials) or necessary - due to, for example legislative changes (restriction of ingredients), ingredients market unavailability, new manufacturing equipment, may have a number of consequences, desired or otherwise. The aim of the study was to evaluate the influence of multiple factors - variations of the composition, manufacturing conditions and their interactions, on emulsion textural and rheological characteristics, applying the general experimental factorial design and, subsequently, to establish the approach that could replace, to some extent, certain expensive and time-consuming tests (e.g. certain sensory analysis), often required, partly or completely, after the reformulation. METHODS: An experimental design strategy was utilized to reveal the influence of reformulation factors (addition of new actives, preparation method change) on textural and rheological properties of cosmetic emulsions, especially those linked to certain sensorial attributes, and droplet size. RESULTS: The general experimental factorial design revealed a significant direct effect of each factor, as well as their interaction effects, on certain characteristics of the system and provided some valuable information necessary for fine-tuning reformulation conditions. Upon addition of STEM-liposomes, consistency, index of viscosity, firmness and cohesiveness were decreased, as along with certain rheology parameters (elastic and viscous modulus), whereas maximal and minimal apparent viscosities and droplet size were increased. The presence of an emollient (squalene) affected all the investigated parameters in a concentration-dependent manner. Modification of the preparation method (using Ultra Turrax instead of a propeller stirrer) produced emulsions with higher firmness and maximal apparent viscosity, but led to a decrease in minimal apparent viscosity, hysteresis loop area, all monitored parameters of oscillatory rheology and droplet size. CONCLUSION: The study showed that the established approach which combines a general experimental design and instrumental, rheological and textural measurements could be appropriate, more objective, repeatable and time and money-saving step towards developing cosmetic emulsions with satisfying, improved or unchanged, consumer-acceptable performance during the reformulation.
PB  - Wiley, Hoboken
T2  - International Journal of Cosmetic Science
T1  - Towards satisfying performance of an O/W cosmetic emulsion: screening of reformulation factors on textural and rheological properties using general experimental design
VL  - 39
IS  - 5
SP  - 486
EP  - 499
DO  - 10.1111/ics.12402
ER  - 

@article{
author = "Filipović, M. and Lukić, Milica and Đorđević, S. and Krstonosić, Veljko and Pantelić, Ivana and Vuleta, Gordana and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2017",
abstract = "OBJECTIVE: Consumers' demand for improved products' performance, alongside with the obligation of meeting the safety and efficacy goals, presents a key reason for the reformulation, as well as a challenging task for formulators. Any change of the formulation, whether it is wanted - in order to innovate the product (new actives and raw materials) or necessary - due to, for example legislative changes (restriction of ingredients), ingredients market unavailability, new manufacturing equipment, may have a number of consequences, desired or otherwise. The aim of the study was to evaluate the influence of multiple factors - variations of the composition, manufacturing conditions and their interactions, on emulsion textural and rheological characteristics, applying the general experimental factorial design and, subsequently, to establish the approach that could replace, to some extent, certain expensive and time-consuming tests (e.g. certain sensory analysis), often required, partly or completely, after the reformulation. METHODS: An experimental design strategy was utilized to reveal the influence of reformulation factors (addition of new actives, preparation method change) on textural and rheological properties of cosmetic emulsions, especially those linked to certain sensorial attributes, and droplet size. RESULTS: The general experimental factorial design revealed a significant direct effect of each factor, as well as their interaction effects, on certain characteristics of the system and provided some valuable information necessary for fine-tuning reformulation conditions. Upon addition of STEM-liposomes, consistency, index of viscosity, firmness and cohesiveness were decreased, as along with certain rheology parameters (elastic and viscous modulus), whereas maximal and minimal apparent viscosities and droplet size were increased. The presence of an emollient (squalene) affected all the investigated parameters in a concentration-dependent manner. Modification of the preparation method (using Ultra Turrax instead of a propeller stirrer) produced emulsions with higher firmness and maximal apparent viscosity, but led to a decrease in minimal apparent viscosity, hysteresis loop area, all monitored parameters of oscillatory rheology and droplet size. CONCLUSION: The study showed that the established approach which combines a general experimental design and instrumental, rheological and textural measurements could be appropriate, more objective, repeatable and time and money-saving step towards developing cosmetic emulsions with satisfying, improved or unchanged, consumer-acceptable performance during the reformulation.",
publisher = "Wiley, Hoboken",
journal = "International Journal of Cosmetic Science",
title = "Towards satisfying performance of an O/W cosmetic emulsion: screening of reformulation factors on textural and rheological properties using general experimental design",
volume = "39",
number = "5",
pages = "486-499",
doi = "10.1111/ics.12402"
}

Filipović, M., Lukić, M., Đorđević, S., Krstonosić, V., Pantelić, I., Vuleta, G.,& Savić, S.. (2017). Towards satisfying performance of an O/W cosmetic emulsion: screening of reformulation factors on textural and rheological properties using general experimental design. in International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Wiley, Hoboken., 39(5), 486-499.
https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12402

Filipović M, Lukić M, Đorđević S, Krstonosić V, Pantelić I, Vuleta G, Savić S. Towards satisfying performance of an O/W cosmetic emulsion: screening of reformulation factors on textural and rheological properties using general experimental design. in International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2017;39(5):486-499.
doi:10.1111/ics.12402 .

Filipović, M., Lukić, Milica, Đorđević, S., Krstonosić, Veljko, Pantelić, Ivana, Vuleta, Gordana, Savić, Snežana, "Towards satisfying performance of an O/W cosmetic emulsion: screening of reformulation factors on textural and rheological properties using general experimental design" in International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 39, no. 5 (2017):486-499,
https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12402 . .

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Filipović, Mila
AU  - Lukić, Milica
AU  - Krstonosić, Veljko
AU  - Đorđević, Sanela
AU  - Pantelić, Ivana
AU  - Gledović, Ana
AU  - Vuleta, Gordana
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2016
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/2527
AB  - During the formulation of liposome-containing products different problems can occur and the selection of a suitable carrier remains the greatest challenge. To estimate feasibility of a novel alkyl polyglucoside surfactant (hydroxystearyl alcohol and hydroxystearyl glucoside) as an emulsifier for cosmetics with liposome-encapsulated plant stem cells, we performed a two-phase study. In the first, the pre-formulation phase, the emulsifier's critical micelle concentration (CMC) and liposome-encapsulated active-emulsifier interactions were determined. The second phase was carried out to develop and characterize a cosmetic emulsion suitable to serve as a carrier for liposomes. The investigated emulsifier, with the obtained CMC value of 0.0085 wt.%, could be classified as liposome-friendly and can be used to develop stable and aesthetically acceptable cosmetics or even prospective pharmaceutical liposome-containing emulsions.
PB  - Carl Hanser Verlag, Munich
T2  - Tenside Surfactants Detergents
T1  - Feasibility of a Natural Surfactant as a Stabilizer for Cosmetics with Liposome-Encapsulated Plant Stem Cells: Pre-Formulation and Formulation Through Stability Studies
VL  - 53
IS  - 3
SP  - 214
EP  - 226
DO  - 10.3139/113.110426
ER  - 

@article{
author = "Filipović, Mila and Lukić, Milica and Krstonosić, Veljko and Đorđević, Sanela and Pantelić, Ivana and Gledović, Ana and Vuleta, Gordana and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2016",
abstract = "During the formulation of liposome-containing products different problems can occur and the selection of a suitable carrier remains the greatest challenge. To estimate feasibility of a novel alkyl polyglucoside surfactant (hydroxystearyl alcohol and hydroxystearyl glucoside) as an emulsifier for cosmetics with liposome-encapsulated plant stem cells, we performed a two-phase study. In the first, the pre-formulation phase, the emulsifier's critical micelle concentration (CMC) and liposome-encapsulated active-emulsifier interactions were determined. The second phase was carried out to develop and characterize a cosmetic emulsion suitable to serve as a carrier for liposomes. The investigated emulsifier, with the obtained CMC value of 0.0085 wt.%, could be classified as liposome-friendly and can be used to develop stable and aesthetically acceptable cosmetics or even prospective pharmaceutical liposome-containing emulsions.",
publisher = "Carl Hanser Verlag, Munich",
journal = "Tenside Surfactants Detergents",
title = "Feasibility of a Natural Surfactant as a Stabilizer for Cosmetics with Liposome-Encapsulated Plant Stem Cells: Pre-Formulation and Formulation Through Stability Studies",
volume = "53",
number = "3",
pages = "214-226",
doi = "10.3139/113.110426"
}

Filipović, M., Lukić, M., Krstonosić, V., Đorđević, S., Pantelić, I., Gledović, A., Vuleta, G.,& Savić, S.. (2016). Feasibility of a Natural Surfactant as a Stabilizer for Cosmetics with Liposome-Encapsulated Plant Stem Cells: Pre-Formulation and Formulation Through Stability Studies. in Tenside Surfactants Detergents
Carl Hanser Verlag, Munich., 53(3), 214-226.
https://doi.org/10.3139/113.110426

Filipović M, Lukić M, Krstonosić V, Đorđević S, Pantelić I, Gledović A, Vuleta G, Savić S. Feasibility of a Natural Surfactant as a Stabilizer for Cosmetics with Liposome-Encapsulated Plant Stem Cells: Pre-Formulation and Formulation Through Stability Studies. in Tenside Surfactants Detergents. 2016;53(3):214-226.
doi:10.3139/113.110426 .

Filipović, Mila, Lukić, Milica, Krstonosić, Veljko, Đorđević, Sanela, Pantelić, Ivana, Gledović, Ana, Vuleta, Gordana, Savić, Snežana, "Feasibility of a Natural Surfactant as a Stabilizer for Cosmetics with Liposome-Encapsulated Plant Stem Cells: Pre-Formulation and Formulation Through Stability Studies" in Tenside Surfactants Detergents, 53, no. 3 (2016):214-226,
https://doi.org/10.3139/113.110426 . .

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Bogdanović-Marković, Dragana
AU  - Tasić-Kostov, Marija
AU  - Lukić, Milica
AU  - Isailović, Tanja
AU  - Krstonosić, Veljko
AU  - Daniels, Rolf
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2014
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/2130
AB  - Alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) are a perfect amphiphilic structure, with excellent surface activity and solubility feature. The aim of this study is to develop a simple system, with a relatively low emulsifier content, composed of materials mainly naturally based and with no additional fatty alcohol. Hydroxystearyl alcohol and Hydroxystearyl glucoside, prepared with Jojoba and Hazelnut oil, medium chain triglycerides with or without Xylitylglucoside and Anhydroxylitol and Xylitol, have been investigated by using microscopy, rheology, thermal analysis, pH and conductimetry. Cyclic stress and in vivo skin irritation tests were also conducted. The investigated natural APG emulsifier has a capacity to form simple and stable emulsions of desirable rheological profile with improved hydration potential and to renew damaged skin, thus it can be safely applied as stabilizer in cosmetic and prospective pharmaceutical cream-bases.
PB  - Carl Hanser Verlag, Munich
T2  - Tenside Surfactants Detergents
T1  - Physicochemical Characterization and in vivo Skin Performance of a Novel Alkyl Polyglucoside Emulsifier in Natural Cosmetic Cream-Bases
VL  - 51
IS  - 2
SP  - 133
EP  - 145
DO  - 10.3139/113.110294
ER  - 

@article{
author = "Bogdanović-Marković, Dragana and Tasić-Kostov, Marija and Lukić, Milica and Isailović, Tanja and Krstonosić, Veljko and Daniels, Rolf and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2014",
abstract = "Alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) are a perfect amphiphilic structure, with excellent surface activity and solubility feature. The aim of this study is to develop a simple system, with a relatively low emulsifier content, composed of materials mainly naturally based and with no additional fatty alcohol. Hydroxystearyl alcohol and Hydroxystearyl glucoside, prepared with Jojoba and Hazelnut oil, medium chain triglycerides with or without Xylitylglucoside and Anhydroxylitol and Xylitol, have been investigated by using microscopy, rheology, thermal analysis, pH and conductimetry. Cyclic stress and in vivo skin irritation tests were also conducted. The investigated natural APG emulsifier has a capacity to form simple and stable emulsions of desirable rheological profile with improved hydration potential and to renew damaged skin, thus it can be safely applied as stabilizer in cosmetic and prospective pharmaceutical cream-bases.",
publisher = "Carl Hanser Verlag, Munich",
journal = "Tenside Surfactants Detergents",
title = "Physicochemical Characterization and in vivo Skin Performance of a Novel Alkyl Polyglucoside Emulsifier in Natural Cosmetic Cream-Bases",
volume = "51",
number = "2",
pages = "133-145",
doi = "10.3139/113.110294"
}

Bogdanović-Marković, D., Tasić-Kostov, M., Lukić, M., Isailović, T., Krstonosić, V., Daniels, R.,& Savić, S.. (2014). Physicochemical Characterization and in vivo Skin Performance of a Novel Alkyl Polyglucoside Emulsifier in Natural Cosmetic Cream-Bases. in Tenside Surfactants Detergents
Carl Hanser Verlag, Munich., 51(2), 133-145.
https://doi.org/10.3139/113.110294

Bogdanović-Marković D, Tasić-Kostov M, Lukić M, Isailović T, Krstonosić V, Daniels R, Savić S. Physicochemical Characterization and in vivo Skin Performance of a Novel Alkyl Polyglucoside Emulsifier in Natural Cosmetic Cream-Bases. in Tenside Surfactants Detergents. 2014;51(2):133-145.
doi:10.3139/113.110294 .

Bogdanović-Marković, Dragana, Tasić-Kostov, Marija, Lukić, Milica, Isailović, Tanja, Krstonosić, Veljko, Daniels, Rolf, Savić, Snežana, "Physicochemical Characterization and in vivo Skin Performance of a Novel Alkyl Polyglucoside Emulsifier in Natural Cosmetic Cream-Bases" in Tenside Surfactants Detergents, 51, no. 2 (2014):133-145,
https://doi.org/10.3139/113.110294 . .

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Lukić, Milica
AU  - Pantelić, Ivana
AU  - Krstonosić, Veljko
AU  - Dokić, Ljubica
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2013
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/1958
AB  - In this work, we have modified oil phase composition in one component (mineral oil, isocetyl palmitate, special Olive butter and dimethicone 200/350) and the aim of our work was to establish the influence of that alteration on emulsion rheological and textural properties. Additionally, continuous and oscillatory rheological measurements along with texture analysis were assessed in order to predict emulsion application behavior. Based on the obtained results, the change of oil phase has induced a change in the observed rheological and textural parameters and investigated samples can be divided into two distinct groups: the first group samples with special Olive butter and dimethicone 200/350 and the second group samples with isocetyl palmitate and mineral oil. Results confirmed that instrumental measurements, as sensitive tools, can be used in order to differentiate emulsions regarding textural properties and especially regarding their actual usage and sensory properties. Practical Applications It is a known fact that the structure of semisolid systems can be characterized by various rheological and textural parameters that are also apt to define certain sensory attributes. Sensory attributes dependent on structure characteristics and flow properties, used for the description of the product in pickup and rub-out phase, could be predicted by instrumental, i.e., rheological and textural measurements. Expensive and time-consuming studies performed with human panelists could be, at least to some extent, replaced with simple rheological and textural measurements. These findings could also contribute to the faster and easier introduction of new raw materials, regarding their characterization and prediction of their influence on the final product characteristics. A combined approach like this could be helpful as both time and money-saving tool for full characterization of a novel consumer-acceptable emulsion product.
PB  - Wiley-Blackwell, Hoboken
T2  - Journal of Texture Studies
T1  - Effect of Small Change in Oil Phase Composition on Rheological and Textural Properties of w/o Emulsion
VL  - 44
IS  - 1
SP  - 34
EP  - 44
DO  - 10.1111/j.1745-4603.2012.00363.x
ER  - 

@article{
author = "Lukić, Milica and Pantelić, Ivana and Krstonosić, Veljko and Dokić, Ljubica and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2013",
abstract = "In this work, we have modified oil phase composition in one component (mineral oil, isocetyl palmitate, special Olive butter and dimethicone 200/350) and the aim of our work was to establish the influence of that alteration on emulsion rheological and textural properties. Additionally, continuous and oscillatory rheological measurements along with texture analysis were assessed in order to predict emulsion application behavior. Based on the obtained results, the change of oil phase has induced a change in the observed rheological and textural parameters and investigated samples can be divided into two distinct groups: the first group samples with special Olive butter and dimethicone 200/350 and the second group samples with isocetyl palmitate and mineral oil. Results confirmed that instrumental measurements, as sensitive tools, can be used in order to differentiate emulsions regarding textural properties and especially regarding their actual usage and sensory properties. Practical Applications It is a known fact that the structure of semisolid systems can be characterized by various rheological and textural parameters that are also apt to define certain sensory attributes. Sensory attributes dependent on structure characteristics and flow properties, used for the description of the product in pickup and rub-out phase, could be predicted by instrumental, i.e., rheological and textural measurements. Expensive and time-consuming studies performed with human panelists could be, at least to some extent, replaced with simple rheological and textural measurements. These findings could also contribute to the faster and easier introduction of new raw materials, regarding their characterization and prediction of their influence on the final product characteristics. A combined approach like this could be helpful as both time and money-saving tool for full characterization of a novel consumer-acceptable emulsion product.",
publisher = "Wiley-Blackwell, Hoboken",
journal = "Journal of Texture Studies",
title = "Effect of Small Change in Oil Phase Composition on Rheological and Textural Properties of w/o Emulsion",
volume = "44",
number = "1",
pages = "34-44",
doi = "10.1111/j.1745-4603.2012.00363.x"
}

Lukić, M., Pantelić, I., Krstonosić, V., Dokić, L.,& Savić, S.. (2013). Effect of Small Change in Oil Phase Composition on Rheological and Textural Properties of w/o Emulsion. in Journal of Texture Studies
Wiley-Blackwell, Hoboken., 44(1), 34-44.
https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1745-4603.2012.00363.x

Lukić M, Pantelić I, Krstonosić V, Dokić L, Savić S. Effect of Small Change in Oil Phase Composition on Rheological and Textural Properties of w/o Emulsion. in Journal of Texture Studies. 2013;44(1):34-44.
doi:10.1111/j.1745-4603.2012.00363.x .

Lukić, Milica, Pantelić, Ivana, Krstonosić, Veljko, Dokić, Ljubica, Savić, Snežana, "Effect of Small Change in Oil Phase Composition on Rheological and Textural Properties of w/o Emulsion" in Journal of Texture Studies, 44, no. 1 (2013):34-44,
https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1745-4603.2012.00363.x . .

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Lukić, Milica
AU  - Jaksić, I.
AU  - Krstonosić, Veljko
AU  - Cekić, Nebojša
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2012
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/1709
AB  - To formulate a consumer-acceptable cosmetic product, numerous demands have to be fulfilled, and as the most important, efficacy (both real and perceived), adequate aesthetic (visual perception) and all sensorial characteristics have to be achieved. In this study, four model water-in-oil creams intended for hand care, varying in one emollient component, were submitted to rheological, sensory and textural characterization, and their efficacy was evaluated in in vivo study on human volunteers. Our results indicate that certain alteration restricted to the oil phase induced a change in all investigated characteristics, showing that each instrumental measurement can be used as a sensitive tool in the characterization of cream samples. Regarding the correlation between physical measurements and certain sensory attributes, it is possible to formulate a product with specific sensory characteristics by using pre-defined rheological or textural parameters. To obtain a complete sensory profile of a cosmetic product, a detailed sensory evaluation should be carried out according to the existing standard practices, which are both time- and money-consuming. However, a modified sensory study could be useful for fast in-line screening along with instrumental characterization of a novel cosmetic emulsion product and could be particularly helpful in the process of distinguishing a single formulation from several differing in one component.
PB  - Wiley-Blackwell, Hoboken
T2  - International Journal of Cosmetic Science
T1  - A combined approach in characterization of an effective w/o hand cream: the influence of emollient on textural, sensorial and in vivo skin performance
VL  - 34
IS  - 2
SP  - 140
EP  - 149
DO  - 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00693.x
ER  - 

@article{
author = "Lukić, Milica and Jaksić, I. and Krstonosić, Veljko and Cekić, Nebojša and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2012",
abstract = "To formulate a consumer-acceptable cosmetic product, numerous demands have to be fulfilled, and as the most important, efficacy (both real and perceived), adequate aesthetic (visual perception) and all sensorial characteristics have to be achieved. In this study, four model water-in-oil creams intended for hand care, varying in one emollient component, were submitted to rheological, sensory and textural characterization, and their efficacy was evaluated in in vivo study on human volunteers. Our results indicate that certain alteration restricted to the oil phase induced a change in all investigated characteristics, showing that each instrumental measurement can be used as a sensitive tool in the characterization of cream samples. Regarding the correlation between physical measurements and certain sensory attributes, it is possible to formulate a product with specific sensory characteristics by using pre-defined rheological or textural parameters. To obtain a complete sensory profile of a cosmetic product, a detailed sensory evaluation should be carried out according to the existing standard practices, which are both time- and money-consuming. However, a modified sensory study could be useful for fast in-line screening along with instrumental characterization of a novel cosmetic emulsion product and could be particularly helpful in the process of distinguishing a single formulation from several differing in one component.",
publisher = "Wiley-Blackwell, Hoboken",
journal = "International Journal of Cosmetic Science",
title = "A combined approach in characterization of an effective w/o hand cream: the influence of emollient on textural, sensorial and in vivo skin performance",
volume = "34",
number = "2",
pages = "140-149",
doi = "10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00693.x"
}

Lukić, M., Jaksić, I., Krstonosić, V., Cekić, N.,& Savić, S.. (2012). A combined approach in characterization of an effective w/o hand cream: the influence of emollient on textural, sensorial and in vivo skin performance. in International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Wiley-Blackwell, Hoboken., 34(2), 140-149.
https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00693.x

Lukić M, Jaksić I, Krstonosić V, Cekić N, Savić S. A combined approach in characterization of an effective w/o hand cream: the influence of emollient on textural, sensorial and in vivo skin performance. in International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2012;34(2):140-149.
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00693.x .

Lukić, Milica, Jaksić, I., Krstonosić, Veljko, Cekić, Nebojša, Savić, Snežana, "A combined approach in characterization of an effective w/o hand cream: the influence of emollient on textural, sensorial and in vivo skin performance" in International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 34, no. 2 (2012):140-149,
https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00693.x . .