@article{
author = "Vukašinović, Mila and Pantelić, Ivana and Savić, Sanela and Cekić, Nebojša and Vukašinović Sekulić, Maja and Antić-Stanković, Jelena and Božić, Dragana and Tošić, Anđela and Tamburić, Slobodanka and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2023",
abstract = "Bioactive peptides are promising cosmetic active ingredients that can improve skin health
and appearance. They exhibit a broad spectrum of activity, including anti-aging, antioxidant, an-
timicrobial, and anti-inflammatory effects. The aim of this study was to develop a safe, stable, and
efficacious environmentally friendly (“green”) emulsion using a milk protein hydrolysate as a model
active ingredient. Potential emulsions were formulated with biodegradable emollients, stabilized
with naturally derived mixed emulsifier, and prepared by cold process. They were evaluated for
rheological behavior (continuous rotation and oscillation tests), physical stability (dynamic me-
chanical thermal analysis—DMTA test), and texture profiles, as well as cytotoxic, antioxidant, and
antimicrobial effects. Rheological characterization revealed shear-thinning flow behavior with yield
point from continuous rotation tests and predominantly elastic character from oscillation (amplitude
and frequency sweep) tests, with small structural change detected in the DMTA test. These results
implied satisfactory rheological properties and good stability. Texture analysis revealed acceptable
spreadability and substantivity of the emulsions. The protein hydrolysate showed antioxidant activity.
The developed emulsions showed low antibacterial activity against selected microorganisms, but
this was due to the action of preservatives, not peptides. All potential emulsions showed a desirable
safety profile. The results obtained provide the basis for the next stage of formulation development,
i.e., in vivo efficacy tests.",
publisher = "MDPI",
journal = "Cosmetics",
title = "Development of a “Green” Emulsion with a Milk Protein Hydrolysate: An Evaluation of Rheology, Texture, In Vitro Bioactivity, and Safety",
volume = "10",
number = "6",
doi = "10.3390/cosmetics10060162"
}