Tasić-Kostov, Marija

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  • Tasić-Kostov, Marija (14)
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Author's Bibliography

Polyglycerol ester-based low energy nanoemulsions with red raspberry seed oil and fruit extracts: Formulation development toward effective in vitro/in vivo bioperformance

Gledović, Ana; Janošević-Ležaić, Aleksandra; Nikolić, Ines; Tasić-Kostov, Marija; Antić-Stanković, Jelena; Krstonošić, Veljko; Ranđelović, Danijela; Božić, Dragana; Ilić, Dušan; Tamburić, Slobodanka; Savić, Snežana

(MDPI AG, 2021)

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Gledović, Ana
AU  - Janošević-Ležaić, Aleksandra
AU  - Nikolić, Ines
AU  - Tasić-Kostov, Marija
AU  - Antić-Stanković, Jelena
AU  - Krstonošić, Veljko
AU  - Ranđelović, Danijela
AU  - Božić, Dragana
AU  - Ilić, Dušan
AU  - Tamburić, Slobodanka
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2021
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/3777
AB  - This study focuses on the development of biocompatible oil-in-water (O/W) nanoemulsions based on polyglycerol esters, as promising carriers for natural actives: red raspberry seed oil—RO and hydro-glycolic fruit extracts from red raspberry—RE and French oak—FE. Nanoemulsions were obtained via phase inversion composition (PIC) method at room temperature by dilution of microemulsion phase, confirmed by visual appearance, percentage of transmittance, microscopic, rheological and Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) investigations. The results have shown that the basic RO-loaded formulation could be further enriched with hydro-glycolic fruit extracts from red raspberry or French oak, while keeping a semi-transparent appearance due to the fine droplet size (Z-ave: 50 to 70 nm, PDI value ≤ 0.1). The highest antioxidant activity (~92% inhibition of the DPPH radical) was achieved in the formulation containing both lipophilic (RO) and hydrophilic antioxidants (FE), due to their synergistic effect. The nanoemulsion carrier significantly increased the selective cytotoxic effect of RO towards malignant melanoma (Fem-X) cells, compared to normal human keratinocytes (HaCaT). In vivo study on human volunteers showed satisfactory safety profiles and significant improvement in skin hydration during 2 h after application for all nanoemulsions. Therefore, polyglycerol ester-based nanoemulsions can be promoted as effective carriers for red raspberry seed oil and/or hydro-glycolic fruit extracts in topical formulations intended for skin protection and hydration.
PB  - MDPI AG
T2  - Nanomaterials
T1  - Polyglycerol ester-based low energy nanoemulsions with red raspberry seed oil and fruit extracts: Formulation development toward effective in vitro/in vivo bioperformance
VL  - 11
IS  - 1
SP  - 1
EP  - 21
DO  - 10.3390/nano11010217
ER  - 
@article{
author = "Gledović, Ana and Janošević-Ležaić, Aleksandra and Nikolić, Ines and Tasić-Kostov, Marija and Antić-Stanković, Jelena and Krstonošić, Veljko and Ranđelović, Danijela and Božić, Dragana and Ilić, Dušan and Tamburić, Slobodanka and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2021",
abstract = "This study focuses on the development of biocompatible oil-in-water (O/W) nanoemulsions based on polyglycerol esters, as promising carriers for natural actives: red raspberry seed oil—RO and hydro-glycolic fruit extracts from red raspberry—RE and French oak—FE. Nanoemulsions were obtained via phase inversion composition (PIC) method at room temperature by dilution of microemulsion phase, confirmed by visual appearance, percentage of transmittance, microscopic, rheological and Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) investigations. The results have shown that the basic RO-loaded formulation could be further enriched with hydro-glycolic fruit extracts from red raspberry or French oak, while keeping a semi-transparent appearance due to the fine droplet size (Z-ave: 50 to 70 nm, PDI value ≤ 0.1). The highest antioxidant activity (~92% inhibition of the DPPH radical) was achieved in the formulation containing both lipophilic (RO) and hydrophilic antioxidants (FE), due to their synergistic effect. The nanoemulsion carrier significantly increased the selective cytotoxic effect of RO towards malignant melanoma (Fem-X) cells, compared to normal human keratinocytes (HaCaT). In vivo study on human volunteers showed satisfactory safety profiles and significant improvement in skin hydration during 2 h after application for all nanoemulsions. Therefore, polyglycerol ester-based nanoemulsions can be promoted as effective carriers for red raspberry seed oil and/or hydro-glycolic fruit extracts in topical formulations intended for skin protection and hydration.",
publisher = "MDPI AG",
journal = "Nanomaterials",
title = "Polyglycerol ester-based low energy nanoemulsions with red raspberry seed oil and fruit extracts: Formulation development toward effective in vitro/in vivo bioperformance",
volume = "11",
number = "1",
pages = "1-21",
doi = "10.3390/nano11010217"
}
Gledović, A., Janošević-Ležaić, A., Nikolić, I., Tasić-Kostov, M., Antić-Stanković, J., Krstonošić, V., Ranđelović, D., Božić, D., Ilić, D., Tamburić, S.,& Savić, S.. (2021). Polyglycerol ester-based low energy nanoemulsions with red raspberry seed oil and fruit extracts: Formulation development toward effective in vitro/in vivo bioperformance. in Nanomaterials
MDPI AG., 11(1), 1-21.
https://doi.org/10.3390/nano11010217
Gledović A, Janošević-Ležaić A, Nikolić I, Tasić-Kostov M, Antić-Stanković J, Krstonošić V, Ranđelović D, Božić D, Ilić D, Tamburić S, Savić S. Polyglycerol ester-based low energy nanoemulsions with red raspberry seed oil and fruit extracts: Formulation development toward effective in vitro/in vivo bioperformance. in Nanomaterials. 2021;11(1):1-21.
doi:10.3390/nano11010217 .
Gledović, Ana, Janošević-Ležaić, Aleksandra, Nikolić, Ines, Tasić-Kostov, Marija, Antić-Stanković, Jelena, Krstonošić, Veljko, Ranđelović, Danijela, Božić, Dragana, Ilić, Dušan, Tamburić, Slobodanka, Savić, Snežana, "Polyglycerol ester-based low energy nanoemulsions with red raspberry seed oil and fruit extracts: Formulation development toward effective in vitro/in vivo bioperformance" in Nanomaterials, 11, no. 1 (2021):1-21,
https://doi.org/10.3390/nano11010217 . .
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A 10% Lactobionic acid-containing moisturizer reduces skin surface pH without irritation—An in vivo/in vitro study

Tasić-Kostov, Marija; Lukić, Milica; Savić, Snežana

(Blackwell Publishing Ltd, 2019)

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Tasić-Kostov, Marija
AU  - Lukić, Milica
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2019
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/3290
AB  - Background/Objectives: Stratum corneum acidification is a newer strategy in management of inflammatory dermatoses; acidifying emollients are normally used for that purpose. However, a decrease in pH of the skin is commonly connected to an increase in irritation. The aim of this study was to investigate whether lactobionic acid (LA), cosmeceutical active and "superacid" belonging to the class of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), could decrease pH of skin surface without irritation. Methods: Safety profile of emulsion based on alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) sugar emulsifiers with 10% LA was evaluated in vitro (acute skin irritation test using cytotoxicity assay), and in vivo in safety study employing measurements of the relevant biophysical human skin parameters upon cessation of 24 hours occlusive treatment: transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum hydration (SCH), and skin erythema index (EI). The effect on the pH of human skin surface was investigated by pH measurements prior and 1 hour after application of the emulsion with 10% LA. Results: The pH of the skin was significantly reduced after application of LA-containing emulsion. The results for in vitro skin irritation potential assessment were in line with the in vivo safety study, indicating a satisfactory safety profile of both APG-based emulsion vehicle per se and emulsion with 10% LA. Conclusion: Lactobionic acid (10%) in emulsion based on APGs reduces skin surface pH without irritation and skin barrier impairment; it could be proposed as an alternative to low-molecular AHAs in acidifying emollients.
PB  - Blackwell Publishing Ltd
T2  - Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
T1  - A 10% Lactobionic acid-containing moisturizer reduces skin surface pH without irritation—An in vivo/in vitro study
DO  - 10.1111/jocd.12908
ER  - 
@article{
author = "Tasić-Kostov, Marija and Lukić, Milica and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2019",
abstract = "Background/Objectives: Stratum corneum acidification is a newer strategy in management of inflammatory dermatoses; acidifying emollients are normally used for that purpose. However, a decrease in pH of the skin is commonly connected to an increase in irritation. The aim of this study was to investigate whether lactobionic acid (LA), cosmeceutical active and "superacid" belonging to the class of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), could decrease pH of skin surface without irritation. Methods: Safety profile of emulsion based on alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) sugar emulsifiers with 10% LA was evaluated in vitro (acute skin irritation test using cytotoxicity assay), and in vivo in safety study employing measurements of the relevant biophysical human skin parameters upon cessation of 24 hours occlusive treatment: transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum hydration (SCH), and skin erythema index (EI). The effect on the pH of human skin surface was investigated by pH measurements prior and 1 hour after application of the emulsion with 10% LA. Results: The pH of the skin was significantly reduced after application of LA-containing emulsion. The results for in vitro skin irritation potential assessment were in line with the in vivo safety study, indicating a satisfactory safety profile of both APG-based emulsion vehicle per se and emulsion with 10% LA. Conclusion: Lactobionic acid (10%) in emulsion based on APGs reduces skin surface pH without irritation and skin barrier impairment; it could be proposed as an alternative to low-molecular AHAs in acidifying emollients.",
publisher = "Blackwell Publishing Ltd",
journal = "Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology",
title = "A 10% Lactobionic acid-containing moisturizer reduces skin surface pH without irritation—An in vivo/in vitro study",
doi = "10.1111/jocd.12908"
}
Tasić-Kostov, M., Lukić, M.,& Savić, S.. (2019). A 10% Lactobionic acid-containing moisturizer reduces skin surface pH without irritation—An in vivo/in vitro study. in Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
Blackwell Publishing Ltd..
https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12908
Tasić-Kostov M, Lukić M, Savić S. A 10% Lactobionic acid-containing moisturizer reduces skin surface pH without irritation—An in vivo/in vitro study. in Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2019;.
doi:10.1111/jocd.12908 .
Tasić-Kostov, Marija, Lukić, Milica, Savić, Snežana, "A 10% Lactobionic acid-containing moisturizer reduces skin surface pH without irritation—An in vivo/in vitro study" in Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2019),
https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12908 . .
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Stability, antioxidant activity, in vivo safety and efficacy of creams with standardized wild apple fruit extract: a comparison of conventional and biodegradable emulsifiers

Nesić, I.; Stojiljković, D.; Savić, Snežana; Tasić-Kostov, Marija; Tadić, Vanja M.

(Wiley, Hoboken, 2019)

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Nesić, I.
AU  - Stojiljković, D.
AU  - Savić, Snežana
AU  - Tasić-Kostov, Marija
AU  - Tadić, Vanja M.
PY  - 2019
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/3246
AB  - Objective The aim of the study was in vitro and in vivo characterization of cosmetic cream with 6% of standardized wild apple fruit extract, stabilized by conventional non-ionic emulsifier-CEW, in order to determine the influence of emulsifiers (conventional vs. biodegradable) on the characteristics of creams and their effects on the skin. Methods Organoleptic and physico-chemical (pH values and electrical conductivity) analysis was performed, determination of fruit acids-FAs content (using HPLC analysis) and estimation of its antioxidant activity-AA (using DPPH test) during 180 days. In vivo study included following examinations: screening of safety profile (after creams application under occlusion during 24 h at human skin); skin moisturizing potential, transepidermal water loss-TEWL, skin pH after 28 days of cream application and hypopigmentation efficacy 7 days of cream application at artificially induced skin hyperpigmentation. Results Investigated cosmetic cream-CEW showed satisfactory organoleptic, physico-chemical characteristics, stability, FAs content (0.13%) and AA (19.25 +/- 0.67 %RSC) after preparation, which remained unchanged over the study period. In vivo investigation revealed absence of skin irritation after CEW's application under occlusion. An increase of skin moisturization (after 14 days Delta EC was 18.52 +/- 11.51 and after 28 days of applications 16.52 +/- 9.36) during 28 day-study, with unchanged TEWL and skin pH values was shown. Decrease of melanin index was revealed, too (after 7 days Delta MI was -31.40 +/- 16.50). Conclusion Cosmetic cream stabilized by conventional emulsifier showed better antioxidant potential and weaker moisturizing and hypopigmentation effects related to the cream with same composition but stabilized by biodegradable emulsifiers. Based on all mentioned above, investigated cosmetic cream might be considered for potential use as modern, stable, safe and efficient cosmetic product in the prevention and/or treatment of oxidative stress-related skin changes and/or damages, for moisturization of dry, even irritated skin as well as for lightening of hyperpigmented skin.
PB  - Wiley, Hoboken
T2  - International Journal of Cosmetic Science
T1  - Stability, antioxidant activity, in vivo safety and efficacy of creams with standardized wild apple fruit extract: a comparison of conventional and biodegradable emulsifiers
VL  - 41
IS  - 3
SP  - 300
EP  - 310
DO  - 10.1111/ics.12537
ER  - 
@article{
author = "Nesić, I. and Stojiljković, D. and Savić, Snežana and Tasić-Kostov, Marija and Tadić, Vanja M.",
year = "2019",
abstract = "Objective The aim of the study was in vitro and in vivo characterization of cosmetic cream with 6% of standardized wild apple fruit extract, stabilized by conventional non-ionic emulsifier-CEW, in order to determine the influence of emulsifiers (conventional vs. biodegradable) on the characteristics of creams and their effects on the skin. Methods Organoleptic and physico-chemical (pH values and electrical conductivity) analysis was performed, determination of fruit acids-FAs content (using HPLC analysis) and estimation of its antioxidant activity-AA (using DPPH test) during 180 days. In vivo study included following examinations: screening of safety profile (after creams application under occlusion during 24 h at human skin); skin moisturizing potential, transepidermal water loss-TEWL, skin pH after 28 days of cream application and hypopigmentation efficacy 7 days of cream application at artificially induced skin hyperpigmentation. Results Investigated cosmetic cream-CEW showed satisfactory organoleptic, physico-chemical characteristics, stability, FAs content (0.13%) and AA (19.25 +/- 0.67 %RSC) after preparation, which remained unchanged over the study period. In vivo investigation revealed absence of skin irritation after CEW's application under occlusion. An increase of skin moisturization (after 14 days Delta EC was 18.52 +/- 11.51 and after 28 days of applications 16.52 +/- 9.36) during 28 day-study, with unchanged TEWL and skin pH values was shown. Decrease of melanin index was revealed, too (after 7 days Delta MI was -31.40 +/- 16.50). Conclusion Cosmetic cream stabilized by conventional emulsifier showed better antioxidant potential and weaker moisturizing and hypopigmentation effects related to the cream with same composition but stabilized by biodegradable emulsifiers. Based on all mentioned above, investigated cosmetic cream might be considered for potential use as modern, stable, safe and efficient cosmetic product in the prevention and/or treatment of oxidative stress-related skin changes and/or damages, for moisturization of dry, even irritated skin as well as for lightening of hyperpigmented skin.",
publisher = "Wiley, Hoboken",
journal = "International Journal of Cosmetic Science",
title = "Stability, antioxidant activity, in vivo safety and efficacy of creams with standardized wild apple fruit extract: a comparison of conventional and biodegradable emulsifiers",
volume = "41",
number = "3",
pages = "300-310",
doi = "10.1111/ics.12537"
}
Nesić, I., Stojiljković, D., Savić, S., Tasić-Kostov, M.,& Tadić, V. M.. (2019). Stability, antioxidant activity, in vivo safety and efficacy of creams with standardized wild apple fruit extract: a comparison of conventional and biodegradable emulsifiers. in International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Wiley, Hoboken., 41(3), 300-310.
https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12537
Nesić I, Stojiljković D, Savić S, Tasić-Kostov M, Tadić VM. Stability, antioxidant activity, in vivo safety and efficacy of creams with standardized wild apple fruit extract: a comparison of conventional and biodegradable emulsifiers. in International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2019;41(3):300-310.
doi:10.1111/ics.12537 .
Nesić, I., Stojiljković, D., Savić, Snežana, Tasić-Kostov, Marija, Tadić, Vanja M., "Stability, antioxidant activity, in vivo safety and efficacy of creams with standardized wild apple fruit extract: a comparison of conventional and biodegradable emulsifiers" in International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41, no. 3 (2019):300-310,
https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12537 . .
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Alp Rose stem cells, olive oil squalene and a natural alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier: Are they appropriate ingredients of skin moisturizers - in vivo efficiency on normal and sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin?

Filipović, Mila; Gledović, Ana; Lukić, Milica; Tasić-Kostov, Marija; Isailović, Tanja; Pantelić, Ivana; Vuleta, Gordana; Savić, Snežana

(Vojnomedicinska akademija - Institut za naučne informacije, Beograd, 2016)

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Filipović, Mila
AU  - Gledović, Ana
AU  - Lukić, Milica
AU  - Tasić-Kostov, Marija
AU  - Isailović, Tanja
AU  - Pantelić, Ivana
AU  - Vuleta, Gordana
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2016
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/2628
AB  - Background/Aim. Since skin moisturization may be achieved by both actives and chosen carrier, plant stem cells, squalene and natural alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier may be potential components of contemporary cosmetic products. The aim of the study was in vivo evaluation of the skin irritation potential and the efficacy of Alpine Rose stem cells incorporated into liposomes and olive oil squalene as ingredients of moisturizing creams, with respect to the novel emulsifier used for creams' stabilization. Methods. With the employment of noninvasive skin biophysical measurements, skin hydration (EC), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), erythema index (EI) and viscoelasticity were measured on 76 healthy volunteers. In the first phase, skin irritation after a 24-hour occlusion and the long-term efficacy of creams (a 21-day study) on healthy skin were evaluated. Phase II of the study focused on the cream efficacy assessment after a 6-day treatment of sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin. Results. After a 24-hour occlusion, there were no significant changes in the EI for any tested sample. In the second phase of the study, the EI was not significantly altered for the cream containing squalene, while the application of all active samples resulted in a significant reduction of TEWL. In both phases of the study an EC increase was recorded, especially for the squalene-containing cream. Conclusion. Due to the lack of skin irritation and skin barrier impairment along with the marked hydration effect, it could be said that the investigated actives incorporated into alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier-stabilized creams may be safely applied as ingredients for "tailor-made" cosmetic moisturizers intended for normal and dry skin care, whereas olive oil squalene could be used for the treatment of irritated or sensitive skin as well.
AB  - Uvod/Cilj. S obzirom na to da vlaženje kože može biti postignuto izborom kako aktivnih supstanci, tako i odgovarajućeg nosača, biljne matične ćelije, skvalen i prirodni alkil poliglukozidni emulgator mogu biti potencijalni sastojci savremenih kozmetičkih proizvoda. Cilj ovog rada bio je in vivo procena iritiranog potencijala i efikasnosti matičnih ćelija alpske ruže dodatih u liposome i skvalena maslinovog ulja, kao sastojaka vlažećih krema, imajući u vidu nov emulgator koji je korišćen za njihovu stabilizaciju. Metode. Upotrebom neinvazivnih metoda zasnovanih na biofizičkim merenjima na koži, kod 76 zdravih dobrovoljaca mereni su: hidratacija kože (EC), transepidermalni gubitak vlage (TEWL), eritema indeks (EI) i viskoelastičnost kože. U prvoj fazi studije vršena je procena iritacije kože nakon 24-h okluzije, kao i procena efikasnosti krema nakon primene na zdravoj koži dobrovoljaca u trajanju od 21 dana. Druga faza studije bila je bazirana na proceni efikasnosti krema nakon 6-dnevnog tretmana kože prethodno iritirane natrijum-lauril-sulfatom. Rezultati. Nakon 24-h okluzije nije bilo značajne promene vrednosti EI ni kod jednog ispitivanog krema. U drugoj fazi studije, krem sa skvalenom nije značajno uticao na promenu vrednosti EI, dok je primena svih aktivnih krema dovela do značajnog sniženja vrednosti TEWL. U obe faze studije zabeležen je porast EC, naročito nakon primene krema koji sadrži skvalen. Zaključak. Uzevši u obzir odsustvo nadraženosti kože i narušavanja kožne barijere, kao i porast hidratacije površinskog sloja kože, može se reći da se ispitivane aktivne supstance ubačene u kreme stabilizovane alkil-poliglukozidnim emulgatorom mogu bezbedno koristiti kao komponente tzv. "skrojenih" kozmetičkih ovlaživača namenjenih za negu zdrave i suve kože, dok se skvalen maslinovog ulja može koristiti i za negu iritirane i osetljive kože.
PB  - Vojnomedicinska akademija - Institut za naučne informacije, Beograd
T2  - Vojnosanitetski pregled
T1  - Alp Rose stem cells, olive oil squalene and a natural alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier: Are they appropriate ingredients of skin moisturizers - in vivo efficiency on normal and sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin?
T1  - Matične ćelije alpske ruže, skvalen maslinovog ulja i prirodni alkil-poliglukozidni emulgator - da li su odgovarajući sastojci kremova za vlaženje - in vivo efikasnost na zdravoj i koži iritiranoj natrijum lauril sulfatom?
VL  - 73
IS  - 11
SP  - 991
EP  - 1002
DO  - 10.2298/VSP150116122F
ER  - 
@article{
author = "Filipović, Mila and Gledović, Ana and Lukić, Milica and Tasić-Kostov, Marija and Isailović, Tanja and Pantelić, Ivana and Vuleta, Gordana and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2016",
abstract = "Background/Aim. Since skin moisturization may be achieved by both actives and chosen carrier, plant stem cells, squalene and natural alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier may be potential components of contemporary cosmetic products. The aim of the study was in vivo evaluation of the skin irritation potential and the efficacy of Alpine Rose stem cells incorporated into liposomes and olive oil squalene as ingredients of moisturizing creams, with respect to the novel emulsifier used for creams' stabilization. Methods. With the employment of noninvasive skin biophysical measurements, skin hydration (EC), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), erythema index (EI) and viscoelasticity were measured on 76 healthy volunteers. In the first phase, skin irritation after a 24-hour occlusion and the long-term efficacy of creams (a 21-day study) on healthy skin were evaluated. Phase II of the study focused on the cream efficacy assessment after a 6-day treatment of sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin. Results. After a 24-hour occlusion, there were no significant changes in the EI for any tested sample. In the second phase of the study, the EI was not significantly altered for the cream containing squalene, while the application of all active samples resulted in a significant reduction of TEWL. In both phases of the study an EC increase was recorded, especially for the squalene-containing cream. Conclusion. Due to the lack of skin irritation and skin barrier impairment along with the marked hydration effect, it could be said that the investigated actives incorporated into alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier-stabilized creams may be safely applied as ingredients for "tailor-made" cosmetic moisturizers intended for normal and dry skin care, whereas olive oil squalene could be used for the treatment of irritated or sensitive skin as well., Uvod/Cilj. S obzirom na to da vlaženje kože može biti postignuto izborom kako aktivnih supstanci, tako i odgovarajućeg nosača, biljne matične ćelije, skvalen i prirodni alkil poliglukozidni emulgator mogu biti potencijalni sastojci savremenih kozmetičkih proizvoda. Cilj ovog rada bio je in vivo procena iritiranog potencijala i efikasnosti matičnih ćelija alpske ruže dodatih u liposome i skvalena maslinovog ulja, kao sastojaka vlažećih krema, imajući u vidu nov emulgator koji je korišćen za njihovu stabilizaciju. Metode. Upotrebom neinvazivnih metoda zasnovanih na biofizičkim merenjima na koži, kod 76 zdravih dobrovoljaca mereni su: hidratacija kože (EC), transepidermalni gubitak vlage (TEWL), eritema indeks (EI) i viskoelastičnost kože. U prvoj fazi studije vršena je procena iritacije kože nakon 24-h okluzije, kao i procena efikasnosti krema nakon primene na zdravoj koži dobrovoljaca u trajanju od 21 dana. Druga faza studije bila je bazirana na proceni efikasnosti krema nakon 6-dnevnog tretmana kože prethodno iritirane natrijum-lauril-sulfatom. Rezultati. Nakon 24-h okluzije nije bilo značajne promene vrednosti EI ni kod jednog ispitivanog krema. U drugoj fazi studije, krem sa skvalenom nije značajno uticao na promenu vrednosti EI, dok je primena svih aktivnih krema dovela do značajnog sniženja vrednosti TEWL. U obe faze studije zabeležen je porast EC, naročito nakon primene krema koji sadrži skvalen. Zaključak. Uzevši u obzir odsustvo nadraženosti kože i narušavanja kožne barijere, kao i porast hidratacije površinskog sloja kože, može se reći da se ispitivane aktivne supstance ubačene u kreme stabilizovane alkil-poliglukozidnim emulgatorom mogu bezbedno koristiti kao komponente tzv. "skrojenih" kozmetičkih ovlaživača namenjenih za negu zdrave i suve kože, dok se skvalen maslinovog ulja može koristiti i za negu iritirane i osetljive kože.",
publisher = "Vojnomedicinska akademija - Institut za naučne informacije, Beograd",
journal = "Vojnosanitetski pregled",
title = "Alp Rose stem cells, olive oil squalene and a natural alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier: Are they appropriate ingredients of skin moisturizers - in vivo efficiency on normal and sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin?, Matične ćelije alpske ruže, skvalen maslinovog ulja i prirodni alkil-poliglukozidni emulgator - da li su odgovarajući sastojci kremova za vlaženje - in vivo efikasnost na zdravoj i koži iritiranoj natrijum lauril sulfatom?",
volume = "73",
number = "11",
pages = "991-1002",
doi = "10.2298/VSP150116122F"
}
Filipović, M., Gledović, A., Lukić, M., Tasić-Kostov, M., Isailović, T., Pantelić, I., Vuleta, G.,& Savić, S.. (2016). Alp Rose stem cells, olive oil squalene and a natural alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier: Are they appropriate ingredients of skin moisturizers - in vivo efficiency on normal and sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin?. in Vojnosanitetski pregled
Vojnomedicinska akademija - Institut za naučne informacije, Beograd., 73(11), 991-1002.
https://doi.org/10.2298/VSP150116122F
Filipović M, Gledović A, Lukić M, Tasić-Kostov M, Isailović T, Pantelić I, Vuleta G, Savić S. Alp Rose stem cells, olive oil squalene and a natural alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier: Are they appropriate ingredients of skin moisturizers - in vivo efficiency on normal and sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin?. in Vojnosanitetski pregled. 2016;73(11):991-1002.
doi:10.2298/VSP150116122F .
Filipović, Mila, Gledović, Ana, Lukić, Milica, Tasić-Kostov, Marija, Isailović, Tanja, Pantelić, Ivana, Vuleta, Gordana, Savić, Snežana, "Alp Rose stem cells, olive oil squalene and a natural alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier: Are they appropriate ingredients of skin moisturizers - in vivo efficiency on normal and sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin?" in Vojnosanitetski pregled, 73, no. 11 (2016):991-1002,
https://doi.org/10.2298/VSP150116122F . .
7
3
7

Usnea barbata CO2-supercritical extract in alkyl polyglucoside-based emulsion system: contribution of Confocal Raman imaging to the formulation development of a natural product

Žugić, Ana R.; Lunter, Dominique; Daniels, Rolf; Pantelić, Ivana; Tasić-Kostov, Marija; Tadić, Vanja M.; Mišić, Dušan; Arsić, Ivana A.; Savić, Snežana

(Taylor & Francis Ltd, Abingdon, 2016)

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Žugić, Ana R.
AU  - Lunter, Dominique
AU  - Daniels, Rolf
AU  - Pantelić, Ivana
AU  - Tasić-Kostov, Marija
AU  - Tadić, Vanja M.
AU  - Mišić, Dušan
AU  - Arsić, Ivana A.
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2016
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/2588
AB  - Topical treatment of skin infections is often limited by drawbacks related to both antimicrobial agents and their vehicles. In addition, considering the growing promotion of natural therapeutic products, our objective was to develop and evaluate naturally-based emulsion system, as prospective topical formulation for skin infections-treatment. Therefore, alkyl polyglucoside surfactants were used for stabilization of a vehicle serving as potential carrier for supercritical CO2-extract of Usnea barbata, lichen with well-documented antimicrobial activity, incorporated using two protocols and three concentrations. Comprehensive physicochemical characterization suggested possible involvement of extract's particles in stabilization of the investigated system. Raman spectral imaging served as the key method in disclosing extract's particles potential to participate in the microstructure of the tested emulsion system via three mechanisms: (1) particle-particle aggregation, (2) adsorption at the oil-water interface and (3) hydrophobic particle-surfactant interactions. Stated extract-vehicle interaction proved to be correlated to the preparation procedure and extract concentration on one hand and to affect the physicochemical and biopharmaceutical features of investigated system, on the other hand. Thereafter, formulation with the best preliminary stability and liberation profile was selected for further efficiency and in vivo skin irritation potential evaluation, implying pertinent in vitro antimicrobial activity against G+ bacteria and overall satisfying preliminary safety profile.
PB  - Taylor & Francis Ltd, Abingdon
T2  - Pharmaceutical Development and Technology
T1  - Usnea barbata CO2-supercritical extract in alkyl polyglucoside-based emulsion system: contribution of Confocal Raman imaging to the formulation development of a natural product
VL  - 21
IS  - 5
SP  - 563
EP  - 575
DO  - 10.3109/10837450.2015.1026606
ER  - 
@article{
author = "Žugić, Ana R. and Lunter, Dominique and Daniels, Rolf and Pantelić, Ivana and Tasić-Kostov, Marija and Tadić, Vanja M. and Mišić, Dušan and Arsić, Ivana A. and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2016",
abstract = "Topical treatment of skin infections is often limited by drawbacks related to both antimicrobial agents and their vehicles. In addition, considering the growing promotion of natural therapeutic products, our objective was to develop and evaluate naturally-based emulsion system, as prospective topical formulation for skin infections-treatment. Therefore, alkyl polyglucoside surfactants were used for stabilization of a vehicle serving as potential carrier for supercritical CO2-extract of Usnea barbata, lichen with well-documented antimicrobial activity, incorporated using two protocols and three concentrations. Comprehensive physicochemical characterization suggested possible involvement of extract's particles in stabilization of the investigated system. Raman spectral imaging served as the key method in disclosing extract's particles potential to participate in the microstructure of the tested emulsion system via three mechanisms: (1) particle-particle aggregation, (2) adsorption at the oil-water interface and (3) hydrophobic particle-surfactant interactions. Stated extract-vehicle interaction proved to be correlated to the preparation procedure and extract concentration on one hand and to affect the physicochemical and biopharmaceutical features of investigated system, on the other hand. Thereafter, formulation with the best preliminary stability and liberation profile was selected for further efficiency and in vivo skin irritation potential evaluation, implying pertinent in vitro antimicrobial activity against G+ bacteria and overall satisfying preliminary safety profile.",
publisher = "Taylor & Francis Ltd, Abingdon",
journal = "Pharmaceutical Development and Technology",
title = "Usnea barbata CO2-supercritical extract in alkyl polyglucoside-based emulsion system: contribution of Confocal Raman imaging to the formulation development of a natural product",
volume = "21",
number = "5",
pages = "563-575",
doi = "10.3109/10837450.2015.1026606"
}
Žugić, A. R., Lunter, D., Daniels, R., Pantelić, I., Tasić-Kostov, M., Tadić, V. M., Mišić, D., Arsić, I. A.,& Savić, S.. (2016). Usnea barbata CO2-supercritical extract in alkyl polyglucoside-based emulsion system: contribution of Confocal Raman imaging to the formulation development of a natural product. in Pharmaceutical Development and Technology
Taylor & Francis Ltd, Abingdon., 21(5), 563-575.
https://doi.org/10.3109/10837450.2015.1026606
Žugić AR, Lunter D, Daniels R, Pantelić I, Tasić-Kostov M, Tadić VM, Mišić D, Arsić IA, Savić S. Usnea barbata CO2-supercritical extract in alkyl polyglucoside-based emulsion system: contribution of Confocal Raman imaging to the formulation development of a natural product. in Pharmaceutical Development and Technology. 2016;21(5):563-575.
doi:10.3109/10837450.2015.1026606 .
Žugić, Ana R., Lunter, Dominique, Daniels, Rolf, Pantelić, Ivana, Tasić-Kostov, Marija, Tadić, Vanja M., Mišić, Dušan, Arsić, Ivana A., Savić, Snežana, "Usnea barbata CO2-supercritical extract in alkyl polyglucoside-based emulsion system: contribution of Confocal Raman imaging to the formulation development of a natural product" in Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, 21, no. 5 (2016):563-575,
https://doi.org/10.3109/10837450.2015.1026606 . .
1
9
5
7

New natural sugar-based surfactants intended for stabilization of cosmetic/dermopharmaceutical vehicles: Safety and efficacy assessment

Tasić-Kostov, Marija; Savić, Snežana

(Univerzitet u Nišu - Medicinski fakultet, Niš, 2015)

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Tasić-Kostov, Marija
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2015
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/2502
AB  - Despite a large number of different vehicles available nowadays, conventional emulsion systems remain one of the most commonly used for cosmetic and dermatological preparations. Popularly labelled as skin- and environmentally-friendly, alkyl polyglucoside (APG) sugar-based emulsifiers have attracted considerable interest with regard to their dermatological properties, since irritation potential of commonly used emulsifiers could affect the functionality and safety of dermopharmaceutics. The aim of this study was to promote the emulsion based on C16/18 APG as a prospective vehicle for topical drugs and cosmetic actives assessing the safety for use and skin hydration capacity. In accordance with the requirements of newer legislation in vitro, acute skin irritation test was performed using cytotoxicity assay on artificial skin. The results were compared with in vivo data obtained by measuring the skin biophysical parameters, such as: stratum corneum hydration (SCH), erythema index (EI), and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Parameters were measured prior to (baseline values) and upon cessation of a 24-h occlusive treatment in 14 healthy human volunteers. In vivo moisturizing capacity of the emulsions was assessed in 16 healthy volunteers in a long-term trial measuring of SCH. This study showed, investigating the most frequently used APG, that emulsions based on these emulsifiers could probably be promoted as safe cosmetic/ dermopharmaceutical vehicles. Prospective safety for human use with the correlation between in vivo and in vitro findings was shown. In addition, the investigated vehicle per se showed an excellent skin moisturizing capacity which is essential in maintaining healthy skin, but also in improving dermatitis, which follows most pathological skin conditions.
AB  - Emulzije su najčešće korišćeni nosači u izradi kozmetičkih proizvoda i dermatoloških lekova. Emulgatori, obavezni sastojci emulzija, mogu da poseduju visok potencijal da iritiraju kožu i oštećuju njenu barijeru. Nasuprot konvencionalnim, alkil poliglukozidi (APG) kao noviji, blagi, biodegradabilni emulgatori, danas privlače veliku pažnju. Smatra se da, osim što ne iritiraju, pokazuju dodatne pozitivne efekte pri lokalnoj aplikaciji kao što je vlaženje kože. Cilj studije bio je ispitivanje emulzija stabilisanih jednim od najčešće korišćenih C16/18 APG, i to u smislu bezbednosti za upotrebu i potencijala za hidrataciju kože. U skladu sa najnovijom zakonskom regulativom u ovoj oblasti, potencijal za lokalnu iritaciju određen je in vitro testom citotoksičnosti na veštačkoj koži, kao i in vivo merenjem biofizičkih parametara kože na humanim dobrovoljcima: električna kapacitivnost (SCH), eritema indeks (EI) i transepidermalni gubitak vode (TEWL). Merene su bazalne i vrednosti parametara 24h nakon aplikacije uzorka okluzijom. Kapacitet uzorka da efikasno i produženo hidratiše kožu određivan je in vivo merenjem parametra SCH nakon jednokratne aplikacije. Ispitujući emulzije stabilisane jednim od najčešće korišćenih APG, studija je pokazala da se ovi emulgatori verovatno mogu smatrati bezbednim u izradi kozmetič- kih/dermofarmaceutskih nosača, pri čemu su rezultati in vivo i in vitro ispitivanja bili su u međusobnom skladu. Nije registrovan iritacioni potencijal korišćenog APG, inače čest problem pri upotrebi konvecionalnih emulgatora starijih generacija, a pokazan je odličan potencijal emulzija sa C16/18 APG za efikasnu i prolongiranu hidrataciju. Poslednje može biti od velikog značaja u tretmanu zdrave, ali naročito kože zahvaćene dermatitisom koji je pratilac većine patoloških stanja kože.
PB  - Univerzitet u Nišu - Medicinski fakultet, Niš
T2  - Acta medica Medianae
T1  - New natural sugar-based surfactants intended for stabilization of cosmetic/dermopharmaceutical vehicles: Safety and efficacy assessment
T1  - Noviji prirodni šećerni emulgatori namenjeni izradi nosača za dermatološke lekove i kozmetički aktivne supstance - ispitivanje bezbednosti i efikasnosti
VL  - 54
IS  - 1
SP  - 34
EP  - 39
DO  - 10.5633/amm.2015.0105
ER  - 
@article{
author = "Tasić-Kostov, Marija and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2015",
abstract = "Despite a large number of different vehicles available nowadays, conventional emulsion systems remain one of the most commonly used for cosmetic and dermatological preparations. Popularly labelled as skin- and environmentally-friendly, alkyl polyglucoside (APG) sugar-based emulsifiers have attracted considerable interest with regard to their dermatological properties, since irritation potential of commonly used emulsifiers could affect the functionality and safety of dermopharmaceutics. The aim of this study was to promote the emulsion based on C16/18 APG as a prospective vehicle for topical drugs and cosmetic actives assessing the safety for use and skin hydration capacity. In accordance with the requirements of newer legislation in vitro, acute skin irritation test was performed using cytotoxicity assay on artificial skin. The results were compared with in vivo data obtained by measuring the skin biophysical parameters, such as: stratum corneum hydration (SCH), erythema index (EI), and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Parameters were measured prior to (baseline values) and upon cessation of a 24-h occlusive treatment in 14 healthy human volunteers. In vivo moisturizing capacity of the emulsions was assessed in 16 healthy volunteers in a long-term trial measuring of SCH. This study showed, investigating the most frequently used APG, that emulsions based on these emulsifiers could probably be promoted as safe cosmetic/ dermopharmaceutical vehicles. Prospective safety for human use with the correlation between in vivo and in vitro findings was shown. In addition, the investigated vehicle per se showed an excellent skin moisturizing capacity which is essential in maintaining healthy skin, but also in improving dermatitis, which follows most pathological skin conditions., Emulzije su najčešće korišćeni nosači u izradi kozmetičkih proizvoda i dermatoloških lekova. Emulgatori, obavezni sastojci emulzija, mogu da poseduju visok potencijal da iritiraju kožu i oštećuju njenu barijeru. Nasuprot konvencionalnim, alkil poliglukozidi (APG) kao noviji, blagi, biodegradabilni emulgatori, danas privlače veliku pažnju. Smatra se da, osim što ne iritiraju, pokazuju dodatne pozitivne efekte pri lokalnoj aplikaciji kao što je vlaženje kože. Cilj studije bio je ispitivanje emulzija stabilisanih jednim od najčešće korišćenih C16/18 APG, i to u smislu bezbednosti za upotrebu i potencijala za hidrataciju kože. U skladu sa najnovijom zakonskom regulativom u ovoj oblasti, potencijal za lokalnu iritaciju određen je in vitro testom citotoksičnosti na veštačkoj koži, kao i in vivo merenjem biofizičkih parametara kože na humanim dobrovoljcima: električna kapacitivnost (SCH), eritema indeks (EI) i transepidermalni gubitak vode (TEWL). Merene su bazalne i vrednosti parametara 24h nakon aplikacije uzorka okluzijom. Kapacitet uzorka da efikasno i produženo hidratiše kožu određivan je in vivo merenjem parametra SCH nakon jednokratne aplikacije. Ispitujući emulzije stabilisane jednim od najčešće korišćenih APG, studija je pokazala da se ovi emulgatori verovatno mogu smatrati bezbednim u izradi kozmetič- kih/dermofarmaceutskih nosača, pri čemu su rezultati in vivo i in vitro ispitivanja bili su u međusobnom skladu. Nije registrovan iritacioni potencijal korišćenog APG, inače čest problem pri upotrebi konvecionalnih emulgatora starijih generacija, a pokazan je odličan potencijal emulzija sa C16/18 APG za efikasnu i prolongiranu hidrataciju. Poslednje može biti od velikog značaja u tretmanu zdrave, ali naročito kože zahvaćene dermatitisom koji je pratilac većine patoloških stanja kože.",
publisher = "Univerzitet u Nišu - Medicinski fakultet, Niš",
journal = "Acta medica Medianae",
title = "New natural sugar-based surfactants intended for stabilization of cosmetic/dermopharmaceutical vehicles: Safety and efficacy assessment, Noviji prirodni šećerni emulgatori namenjeni izradi nosača za dermatološke lekove i kozmetički aktivne supstance - ispitivanje bezbednosti i efikasnosti",
volume = "54",
number = "1",
pages = "34-39",
doi = "10.5633/amm.2015.0105"
}
Tasić-Kostov, M.,& Savić, S.. (2015). New natural sugar-based surfactants intended for stabilization of cosmetic/dermopharmaceutical vehicles: Safety and efficacy assessment. in Acta medica Medianae
Univerzitet u Nišu - Medicinski fakultet, Niš., 54(1), 34-39.
https://doi.org/10.5633/amm.2015.0105
Tasić-Kostov M, Savić S. New natural sugar-based surfactants intended for stabilization of cosmetic/dermopharmaceutical vehicles: Safety and efficacy assessment. in Acta medica Medianae. 2015;54(1):34-39.
doi:10.5633/amm.2015.0105 .
Tasić-Kostov, Marija, Savić, Snežana, "New natural sugar-based surfactants intended for stabilization of cosmetic/dermopharmaceutical vehicles: Safety and efficacy assessment" in Acta medica Medianae, 54, no. 1 (2015):34-39,
https://doi.org/10.5633/amm.2015.0105 . .

Alkyl polyglucoside-stabilized emulsion as a prospective vehicle for usnea barbata CO2-supercritical extract: Assessing stability, safety and efficiency of a topical formulation

Žugić, Ana R.; Lukić, Milica; Tasić-Kostov, Marija; Tadić, Vanja M.; Arsić, Ivana A.; Mišić, Dušan; Petrović, Slobodan D.; Savić, Snežana

(Savez hemijskih inženjera, Beograd, 2015)

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Žugić, Ana R.
AU  - Lukić, Milica
AU  - Tasić-Kostov, Marija
AU  - Tadić, Vanja M.
AU  - Arsić, Ivana A.
AU  - Mišić, Dušan
AU  - Petrović, Slobodan D.
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2015
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/2477
AB  - Antimicrobial activity of Usnea barbata especially against bacteria involved in pathogenesis of various skin conditions has been well documented in literature. Nevertheless, there are no papers dealing with formulation of its isolates into topical preparations for treatment of skin infections. In present study, alkyl polyglucoside (APG)-based vehicle was developed as carrier of U. barbata CO2-supercritical extract (U-SE) that demonstrated the best anti- microbial potential in preliminary screening. For comparison, chosen extract in the same concentration and using the same procedure was incorporated into a pharmacopoeial vehicle. Comparative evaluation of physicochemical stability, efficiency and safety proved APG-based vehicle to possess certain preferential features as carrier of U-SE compared to the reference one, composing a topical formulation with potential clinical relevance in treatment of skin infections.
AB  - Antimikrobna aktivnost vrste Usnea barbata naročito protiv bakterija koje učestvuju u patogenezi različitih bolesti kože, dobro je dokumentovana u naučnoj literaturi. Uprkos tome, ne postoje radovi koji se bave formulacijom topikalnih preparata na bazi ovog lišaja namenjenih lečenju kožnih infekcija. U ovoj studiji, razvijena je podloga stablizovana alkil poliglukozidnim (APG) emulgatorom, kao potencijalni nosač za ekstrakt vrste U. barbata koji je pokazao najbolji antimikrobni potencijal u preliminarnom istraživanju nekoliko ekstrakata dobijenih upotrebom različitih ekstragenasa/postupaka. Radi poređenja, odabrani CO2-natkritični ekstrakt je inkorporiran u istoj koncentraciji (koja odgovara 2 mas.% usninske kiseline) i istim postupkom izrade u često korišćenu podlogu farmakopejskog kvaliteta, a zatim je sprovedeno uporedno istraživanje fizičko-hemijske stabilnosti, efikasnosti i bezbednosti na obe grupe uzoraka. Rezulati našeg istraživanja pokazali su da se razvijena podloga stabilizovana APG emulgatorom može smatrati pogodnim nosačem za CO2-natkritični ekstrakt vrste U. barbata, čineći topikalnu formulaciju sa potencijalnim kliničkim značajem u terapiji kožnih infekcija. Reološka istraživanja pokazala su zadovoljavajuću sposobnost emulzije stabilizovane APG emulgatorom da ostane fizički stabilna nakon dodatka CO2-natkritičnog ekstrakta vrste U. barbata, u poređenju sa farmakopejskom. Međutim, konduktometrijska merenja su pokazala određena neslaganja sa reološkim nala- zima, namećući potrebu za dodatnim istraživanjima radi konačne procene fizičke stabilnosti testiranih emulzionih sistema. Izmerene vrednosti pH tokom perioda od 90 dana čuvanja uzoraka na sobnoj temperaturi ukazale su na zadovoljavajuću preliminarnu hemijsku stabilnost svih uzoraka. Dalja istraživanja efikasnosti i bezbednosti pokazala su bolji antimikrobni potencijal uzoraka sa podlogom stabilizovanom APG emulgatorom u odnosu na tradicionalno upotrebljavanu farmakopejsku bazu poznatog kvaliteta. Zadovoljavajući preliminarni bezbedonosni profili su pokazani kako za uzorke stabilizovane APG emulgatorom tako i za referentne krem uzorke. Na osnovu navedenog, može se zaključiti da je istraživana podloga bazirana na APG emulgatoru pokazala određene povoljnije karakteristike kao nosač za CO2-natkritični ekstrakt vrste U. barbata u poređenju sa konvencionalno korišćenom podlogom, naročito uzimajući u obzir njene poboljšane senzorne karakteristike, kao osobinu koja je često odlučujuća za komplijansu pacijenata.
PB  - Savez hemijskih inženjera, Beograd
T2  - Hemijska industrija
T1  - Alkyl polyglucoside-stabilized emulsion as a prospective vehicle for usnea barbata CO2-supercritical extract: Assessing stability, safety and efficiency of a topical formulation
T1  - Emulzija stabilizovana alkil poliglukozidnim emulgatorom kao potencijalni nosač za CO2-natkritični ekstrakt vrste Usnea barbata - procena stabilnosti, bezbednosti i efikasnosti topikalne formulacije
VL  - 69
IS  - 6
SP  - 703
EP  - 712
DO  - 10.2298/HEMIND140701002Z
ER  - 
@article{
author = "Žugić, Ana R. and Lukić, Milica and Tasić-Kostov, Marija and Tadić, Vanja M. and Arsić, Ivana A. and Mišić, Dušan and Petrović, Slobodan D. and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2015",
abstract = "Antimicrobial activity of Usnea barbata especially against bacteria involved in pathogenesis of various skin conditions has been well documented in literature. Nevertheless, there are no papers dealing with formulation of its isolates into topical preparations for treatment of skin infections. In present study, alkyl polyglucoside (APG)-based vehicle was developed as carrier of U. barbata CO2-supercritical extract (U-SE) that demonstrated the best anti- microbial potential in preliminary screening. For comparison, chosen extract in the same concentration and using the same procedure was incorporated into a pharmacopoeial vehicle. Comparative evaluation of physicochemical stability, efficiency and safety proved APG-based vehicle to possess certain preferential features as carrier of U-SE compared to the reference one, composing a topical formulation with potential clinical relevance in treatment of skin infections., Antimikrobna aktivnost vrste Usnea barbata naročito protiv bakterija koje učestvuju u patogenezi različitih bolesti kože, dobro je dokumentovana u naučnoj literaturi. Uprkos tome, ne postoje radovi koji se bave formulacijom topikalnih preparata na bazi ovog lišaja namenjenih lečenju kožnih infekcija. U ovoj studiji, razvijena je podloga stablizovana alkil poliglukozidnim (APG) emulgatorom, kao potencijalni nosač za ekstrakt vrste U. barbata koji je pokazao najbolji antimikrobni potencijal u preliminarnom istraživanju nekoliko ekstrakata dobijenih upotrebom različitih ekstragenasa/postupaka. Radi poređenja, odabrani CO2-natkritični ekstrakt je inkorporiran u istoj koncentraciji (koja odgovara 2 mas.% usninske kiseline) i istim postupkom izrade u često korišćenu podlogu farmakopejskog kvaliteta, a zatim je sprovedeno uporedno istraživanje fizičko-hemijske stabilnosti, efikasnosti i bezbednosti na obe grupe uzoraka. Rezulati našeg istraživanja pokazali su da se razvijena podloga stabilizovana APG emulgatorom može smatrati pogodnim nosačem za CO2-natkritični ekstrakt vrste U. barbata, čineći topikalnu formulaciju sa potencijalnim kliničkim značajem u terapiji kožnih infekcija. Reološka istraživanja pokazala su zadovoljavajuću sposobnost emulzije stabilizovane APG emulgatorom da ostane fizički stabilna nakon dodatka CO2-natkritičnog ekstrakta vrste U. barbata, u poređenju sa farmakopejskom. Međutim, konduktometrijska merenja su pokazala određena neslaganja sa reološkim nala- zima, namećući potrebu za dodatnim istraživanjima radi konačne procene fizičke stabilnosti testiranih emulzionih sistema. Izmerene vrednosti pH tokom perioda od 90 dana čuvanja uzoraka na sobnoj temperaturi ukazale su na zadovoljavajuću preliminarnu hemijsku stabilnost svih uzoraka. Dalja istraživanja efikasnosti i bezbednosti pokazala su bolji antimikrobni potencijal uzoraka sa podlogom stabilizovanom APG emulgatorom u odnosu na tradicionalno upotrebljavanu farmakopejsku bazu poznatog kvaliteta. Zadovoljavajući preliminarni bezbedonosni profili su pokazani kako za uzorke stabilizovane APG emulgatorom tako i za referentne krem uzorke. Na osnovu navedenog, može se zaključiti da je istraživana podloga bazirana na APG emulgatoru pokazala određene povoljnije karakteristike kao nosač za CO2-natkritični ekstrakt vrste U. barbata u poređenju sa konvencionalno korišćenom podlogom, naročito uzimajući u obzir njene poboljšane senzorne karakteristike, kao osobinu koja je često odlučujuća za komplijansu pacijenata.",
publisher = "Savez hemijskih inženjera, Beograd",
journal = "Hemijska industrija",
title = "Alkyl polyglucoside-stabilized emulsion as a prospective vehicle for usnea barbata CO2-supercritical extract: Assessing stability, safety and efficiency of a topical formulation, Emulzija stabilizovana alkil poliglukozidnim emulgatorom kao potencijalni nosač za CO2-natkritični ekstrakt vrste Usnea barbata - procena stabilnosti, bezbednosti i efikasnosti topikalne formulacije",
volume = "69",
number = "6",
pages = "703-712",
doi = "10.2298/HEMIND140701002Z"
}
Žugić, A. R., Lukić, M., Tasić-Kostov, M., Tadić, V. M., Arsić, I. A., Mišić, D., Petrović, S. D.,& Savić, S.. (2015). Alkyl polyglucoside-stabilized emulsion as a prospective vehicle for usnea barbata CO2-supercritical extract: Assessing stability, safety and efficiency of a topical formulation. in Hemijska industrija
Savez hemijskih inženjera, Beograd., 69(6), 703-712.
https://doi.org/10.2298/HEMIND140701002Z
Žugić AR, Lukić M, Tasić-Kostov M, Tadić VM, Arsić IA, Mišić D, Petrović SD, Savić S. Alkyl polyglucoside-stabilized emulsion as a prospective vehicle for usnea barbata CO2-supercritical extract: Assessing stability, safety and efficiency of a topical formulation. in Hemijska industrija. 2015;69(6):703-712.
doi:10.2298/HEMIND140701002Z .
Žugić, Ana R., Lukić, Milica, Tasić-Kostov, Marija, Tadić, Vanja M., Arsić, Ivana A., Mišić, Dušan, Petrović, Slobodan D., Savić, Snežana, "Alkyl polyglucoside-stabilized emulsion as a prospective vehicle for usnea barbata CO2-supercritical extract: Assessing stability, safety and efficiency of a topical formulation" in Hemijska industrija, 69, no. 6 (2015):703-712,
https://doi.org/10.2298/HEMIND140701002Z . .
3
1
2

Physicochemical Characterization and in vivo Skin Performance of a Novel Alkyl Polyglucoside Emulsifier in Natural Cosmetic Cream-Bases

Bogdanović-Marković, Dragana; Tasić-Kostov, Marija; Lukić, Milica; Isailović, Tanja; Krstonosić, Veljko; Daniels, Rolf; Savić, Snežana

(Carl Hanser Verlag, Munich, 2014)

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Bogdanović-Marković, Dragana
AU  - Tasić-Kostov, Marija
AU  - Lukić, Milica
AU  - Isailović, Tanja
AU  - Krstonosić, Veljko
AU  - Daniels, Rolf
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2014
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/2130
AB  - Alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) are a perfect amphiphilic structure, with excellent surface activity and solubility feature. The aim of this study is to develop a simple system, with a relatively low emulsifier content, composed of materials mainly naturally based and with no additional fatty alcohol. Hydroxystearyl alcohol and Hydroxystearyl glucoside, prepared with Jojoba and Hazelnut oil, medium chain triglycerides with or without Xylitylglucoside and Anhydroxylitol and Xylitol, have been investigated by using microscopy, rheology, thermal analysis, pH and conductimetry. Cyclic stress and in vivo skin irritation tests were also conducted. The investigated natural APG emulsifier has a capacity to form simple and stable emulsions of desirable rheological profile with improved hydration potential and to renew damaged skin, thus it can be safely applied as stabilizer in cosmetic and prospective pharmaceutical cream-bases.
PB  - Carl Hanser Verlag, Munich
T2  - Tenside Surfactants Detergents
T1  - Physicochemical Characterization and in vivo Skin Performance of a Novel Alkyl Polyglucoside Emulsifier in Natural Cosmetic Cream-Bases
VL  - 51
IS  - 2
SP  - 133
EP  - 145
DO  - 10.3139/113.110294
ER  - 
@article{
author = "Bogdanović-Marković, Dragana and Tasić-Kostov, Marija and Lukić, Milica and Isailović, Tanja and Krstonosić, Veljko and Daniels, Rolf and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2014",
abstract = "Alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) are a perfect amphiphilic structure, with excellent surface activity and solubility feature. The aim of this study is to develop a simple system, with a relatively low emulsifier content, composed of materials mainly naturally based and with no additional fatty alcohol. Hydroxystearyl alcohol and Hydroxystearyl glucoside, prepared with Jojoba and Hazelnut oil, medium chain triglycerides with or without Xylitylglucoside and Anhydroxylitol and Xylitol, have been investigated by using microscopy, rheology, thermal analysis, pH and conductimetry. Cyclic stress and in vivo skin irritation tests were also conducted. The investigated natural APG emulsifier has a capacity to form simple and stable emulsions of desirable rheological profile with improved hydration potential and to renew damaged skin, thus it can be safely applied as stabilizer in cosmetic and prospective pharmaceutical cream-bases.",
publisher = "Carl Hanser Verlag, Munich",
journal = "Tenside Surfactants Detergents",
title = "Physicochemical Characterization and in vivo Skin Performance of a Novel Alkyl Polyglucoside Emulsifier in Natural Cosmetic Cream-Bases",
volume = "51",
number = "2",
pages = "133-145",
doi = "10.3139/113.110294"
}
Bogdanović-Marković, D., Tasić-Kostov, M., Lukić, M., Isailović, T., Krstonosić, V., Daniels, R.,& Savić, S.. (2014). Physicochemical Characterization and in vivo Skin Performance of a Novel Alkyl Polyglucoside Emulsifier in Natural Cosmetic Cream-Bases. in Tenside Surfactants Detergents
Carl Hanser Verlag, Munich., 51(2), 133-145.
https://doi.org/10.3139/113.110294
Bogdanović-Marković D, Tasić-Kostov M, Lukić M, Isailović T, Krstonosić V, Daniels R, Savić S. Physicochemical Characterization and in vivo Skin Performance of a Novel Alkyl Polyglucoside Emulsifier in Natural Cosmetic Cream-Bases. in Tenside Surfactants Detergents. 2014;51(2):133-145.
doi:10.3139/113.110294 .
Bogdanović-Marković, Dragana, Tasić-Kostov, Marija, Lukić, Milica, Isailović, Tanja, Krstonosić, Veljko, Daniels, Rolf, Savić, Snežana, "Physicochemical Characterization and in vivo Skin Performance of a Novel Alkyl Polyglucoside Emulsifier in Natural Cosmetic Cream-Bases" in Tenside Surfactants Detergents, 51, no. 2 (2014):133-145,
https://doi.org/10.3139/113.110294 . .
4
5
6

Objective skin performance evaluation: How mild are APGs to the skin?

Tasić-Kostov, Marija; Vesić, Sonja; Savić, Snežana

(Elsevier Inc., 2014)

TY  - CHAP
AU  - Tasić-Kostov, Marija
AU  - Vesić, Sonja
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2014
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/2258
AB  - Emulsion systems are the most common vehicles for topical drugs/cosmetic actives. Absence of skin irritation potential is an important legislative requirement. Overcoming emulsion irritancy is usually achieved by selection of emulsifiers. Alkyl Polyglucoside (APG) emulsifiers, successfully used in cosmetics and popularly labelled as skin- and environmentally friendly, have attracted considerable interest. Non-invasive measurements of biophysical skin parameters, and approved in vitro methods, are used for reliable and objective determination of skin properties. This chapter discusses assessment of the performance of topical emulsions, particularly those based on APG-mixed emulsifiers, and interpretation of the results. Research into the safety and efficacy of APGs indicates that APG surfactants could be used for tailoring mild emulsion vehicles, showing benefits as carriers for actives with an unfavourable skin irritation profile.
PB  - Elsevier Inc.
T2  - Alkyl Polyglucosides: From Natural-Origin Surfactants to Prospective Delivery Systems
T1  - Objective skin performance evaluation: How mild are APGs to the skin?
SP  - 135
EP  - 161
DO  - 10.1533/9781908818775.135
ER  - 
@inbook{
author = "Tasić-Kostov, Marija and Vesić, Sonja and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2014",
abstract = "Emulsion systems are the most common vehicles for topical drugs/cosmetic actives. Absence of skin irritation potential is an important legislative requirement. Overcoming emulsion irritancy is usually achieved by selection of emulsifiers. Alkyl Polyglucoside (APG) emulsifiers, successfully used in cosmetics and popularly labelled as skin- and environmentally friendly, have attracted considerable interest. Non-invasive measurements of biophysical skin parameters, and approved in vitro methods, are used for reliable and objective determination of skin properties. This chapter discusses assessment of the performance of topical emulsions, particularly those based on APG-mixed emulsifiers, and interpretation of the results. Research into the safety and efficacy of APGs indicates that APG surfactants could be used for tailoring mild emulsion vehicles, showing benefits as carriers for actives with an unfavourable skin irritation profile.",
publisher = "Elsevier Inc.",
journal = "Alkyl Polyglucosides: From Natural-Origin Surfactants to Prospective Delivery Systems",
booktitle = "Objective skin performance evaluation: How mild are APGs to the skin?",
pages = "135-161",
doi = "10.1533/9781908818775.135"
}
Tasić-Kostov, M., Vesić, S.,& Savić, S.. (2014). Objective skin performance evaluation: How mild are APGs to the skin?. in Alkyl Polyglucosides: From Natural-Origin Surfactants to Prospective Delivery Systems
Elsevier Inc.., 135-161.
https://doi.org/10.1533/9781908818775.135
Tasić-Kostov M, Vesić S, Savić S. Objective skin performance evaluation: How mild are APGs to the skin?. in Alkyl Polyglucosides: From Natural-Origin Surfactants to Prospective Delivery Systems. 2014;:135-161.
doi:10.1533/9781908818775.135 .
Tasić-Kostov, Marija, Vesić, Sonja, Savić, Snežana, "Objective skin performance evaluation: How mild are APGs to the skin?" in Alkyl Polyglucosides: From Natural-Origin Surfactants to Prospective Delivery Systems (2014):135-161,
https://doi.org/10.1533/9781908818775.135 . .
12
12

Evaluation of in vivo effects on surfactant-irritated human skin, antioxidant properties and phenolic composition of five Ericaceae species extracts

Pavlović, Dragana R.; Tasić-Kostov, Marija; Marčetić, Mirjana; Lakušić, Branislava; Kitić, Dušanka; Savić, Snežana; Kovačević, Nada

(Innovhub Ssi-Area Ssog, Milano, 2013)

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Pavlović, Dragana R.
AU  - Tasić-Kostov, Marija
AU  - Marčetić, Mirjana
AU  - Lakušić, Branislava
AU  - Kitić, Dušanka
AU  - Savić, Snežana
AU  - Kovačević, Nada
PY  - 2013
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/1885
AB  - Arbutus unedo, Bruckentalia spiculifolia, Calluna vulgaris, Erica arborea and Erica carnea possess strong antioxidant activity and they are traditionally used for the treatment of various skin diseases. The present study investigated the total phenylpropanoid content, antioxidant properties and phenolic composition of dry leaf ethanol extracts of these species. Furthermore, the in vivo effects of gels, each containing 2% of a single extract were tested on the artificially irritated human skin using the objective methods of skin biophysical measurements (erythema index (EI), pH of the skin and electrical capacitance (EC) as a measure of skin hydration level were assessed). In total, 13 components were identified by RP-HPLC coupled with DAD detection; quercitrin, quercetin 3-O-glucoside and gallic acid were detected in all investigated samples while chlorogenic acid and quercetin were present in 4 samples. Regarding the in vivo study, all investigated gels significantly decreased the skin irritation level and reversed the pH of the skin disturbed by preirritation, while results were contradictory regarding skin hydration measurements. In conclusion, the assessed in vivo topical effects of investigated extracts matched well with their phenylpropanoid content as well as with assessed antioxidant activities.
PB  - Innovhub Ssi-Area Ssog, Milano
T2  - RSC Advances
T1  - Evaluation of in vivo effects on surfactant-irritated human skin, antioxidant properties and phenolic composition of five Ericaceae species extracts
VL  - 90
IS  - 4
SP  - 255
EP  - 264
UR  - https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_farfar_1885
ER  - 
@article{
author = "Pavlović, Dragana R. and Tasić-Kostov, Marija and Marčetić, Mirjana and Lakušić, Branislava and Kitić, Dušanka and Savić, Snežana and Kovačević, Nada",
year = "2013",
abstract = "Arbutus unedo, Bruckentalia spiculifolia, Calluna vulgaris, Erica arborea and Erica carnea possess strong antioxidant activity and they are traditionally used for the treatment of various skin diseases. The present study investigated the total phenylpropanoid content, antioxidant properties and phenolic composition of dry leaf ethanol extracts of these species. Furthermore, the in vivo effects of gels, each containing 2% of a single extract were tested on the artificially irritated human skin using the objective methods of skin biophysical measurements (erythema index (EI), pH of the skin and electrical capacitance (EC) as a measure of skin hydration level were assessed). In total, 13 components were identified by RP-HPLC coupled with DAD detection; quercitrin, quercetin 3-O-glucoside and gallic acid were detected in all investigated samples while chlorogenic acid and quercetin were present in 4 samples. Regarding the in vivo study, all investigated gels significantly decreased the skin irritation level and reversed the pH of the skin disturbed by preirritation, while results were contradictory regarding skin hydration measurements. In conclusion, the assessed in vivo topical effects of investigated extracts matched well with their phenylpropanoid content as well as with assessed antioxidant activities.",
publisher = "Innovhub Ssi-Area Ssog, Milano",
journal = "RSC Advances",
title = "Evaluation of in vivo effects on surfactant-irritated human skin, antioxidant properties and phenolic composition of five Ericaceae species extracts",
volume = "90",
number = "4",
pages = "255-264",
url = "https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_farfar_1885"
}
Pavlović, D. R., Tasić-Kostov, M., Marčetić, M., Lakušić, B., Kitić, D., Savić, S.,& Kovačević, N.. (2013). Evaluation of in vivo effects on surfactant-irritated human skin, antioxidant properties and phenolic composition of five Ericaceae species extracts. in RSC Advances
Innovhub Ssi-Area Ssog, Milano., 90(4), 255-264.
https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_farfar_1885
Pavlović DR, Tasić-Kostov M, Marčetić M, Lakušić B, Kitić D, Savić S, Kovačević N. Evaluation of in vivo effects on surfactant-irritated human skin, antioxidant properties and phenolic composition of five Ericaceae species extracts. in RSC Advances. 2013;90(4):255-264.
https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_farfar_1885 .
Pavlović, Dragana R., Tasić-Kostov, Marija, Marčetić, Mirjana, Lakušić, Branislava, Kitić, Dušanka, Savić, Snežana, Kovačević, Nada, "Evaluation of in vivo effects on surfactant-irritated human skin, antioxidant properties and phenolic composition of five Ericaceae species extracts" in RSC Advances, 90, no. 4 (2013):255-264,
https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_farfar_1885 .
5
5

Lactobionic acid as antioxidant and moisturizing active in alkyl polyglucoside-based topical emulsions: the colloidal structure, stability and efficacy evaluation

Tasić-Kostov, Marija; Pavlović, Dragana R.; Lukić, Milica; Jaksić, I.; Arsić, I.; Savić, Snežana

(Wiley-Blackwell, Hoboken, 2012)

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Tasić-Kostov, Marija
AU  - Pavlović, Dragana R.
AU  - Lukić, Milica
AU  - Jaksić, I.
AU  - Arsić, I.
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2012
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/1643
AB  - Synopsis Cosmeceutical antioxidants may protect the skin against oxidative injury, involved in the pathogenesis of many skin disorders. However, an unsuitable topical delivery system with compromising safety profile can affect the efficacy of an antioxidant active. This study investigated the antioxidant potential of lactobionic acid (LA), a newer cosmeceutical active, per se (in solution) and incorporated into natural alkyl polyglucoside (APG) emulsifier-based system using 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl free radical scavenging and lipid peroxidation inhibition assays. The a-tocopherol was used as a reference compound. The physical stability (using rheology, polarization microscopy, pH and conductivity measurements) of an Alkyl glucoside-based emulsion was evaluated with and without the active (LA); colloidal structure was assessed using polarization and transmission electron microscopy, rheology, thermal and texture analysis. Additionally, the safety profile and moisturizing potential were investigated using the methods of skin bioengineering. Good physical stability and applicative characteristics were obtained although LA strongly influenced the colloidal structure of the vehicle. LA per se and in APG-based emulsion showed satisfying antioxidant activity that promotes it as mild multifunctional cosmeceutical efficient in the treatment and prevention of the photoaged skin. Employed assays were shown as suitable for the antioxidant activity evaluation of LA in APG-based emulsions, but not for a-tocopherol in the same vehicle.
PB  - Wiley-Blackwell, Hoboken
T2  - International Journal of Cosmetic Science
T1  - Lactobionic acid as antioxidant and moisturizing active in alkyl polyglucoside-based topical emulsions: the colloidal structure, stability and efficacy evaluation
VL  - 34
IS  - 5
SP  - 424
EP  - 434
DO  - 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00732.x
ER  - 
@article{
author = "Tasić-Kostov, Marija and Pavlović, Dragana R. and Lukić, Milica and Jaksić, I. and Arsić, I. and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2012",
abstract = "Synopsis Cosmeceutical antioxidants may protect the skin against oxidative injury, involved in the pathogenesis of many skin disorders. However, an unsuitable topical delivery system with compromising safety profile can affect the efficacy of an antioxidant active. This study investigated the antioxidant potential of lactobionic acid (LA), a newer cosmeceutical active, per se (in solution) and incorporated into natural alkyl polyglucoside (APG) emulsifier-based system using 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl free radical scavenging and lipid peroxidation inhibition assays. The a-tocopherol was used as a reference compound. The physical stability (using rheology, polarization microscopy, pH and conductivity measurements) of an Alkyl glucoside-based emulsion was evaluated with and without the active (LA); colloidal structure was assessed using polarization and transmission electron microscopy, rheology, thermal and texture analysis. Additionally, the safety profile and moisturizing potential were investigated using the methods of skin bioengineering. Good physical stability and applicative characteristics were obtained although LA strongly influenced the colloidal structure of the vehicle. LA per se and in APG-based emulsion showed satisfying antioxidant activity that promotes it as mild multifunctional cosmeceutical efficient in the treatment and prevention of the photoaged skin. Employed assays were shown as suitable for the antioxidant activity evaluation of LA in APG-based emulsions, but not for a-tocopherol in the same vehicle.",
publisher = "Wiley-Blackwell, Hoboken",
journal = "International Journal of Cosmetic Science",
title = "Lactobionic acid as antioxidant and moisturizing active in alkyl polyglucoside-based topical emulsions: the colloidal structure, stability and efficacy evaluation",
volume = "34",
number = "5",
pages = "424-434",
doi = "10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00732.x"
}
Tasić-Kostov, M., Pavlović, D. R., Lukić, M., Jaksić, I., Arsić, I.,& Savić, S.. (2012). Lactobionic acid as antioxidant and moisturizing active in alkyl polyglucoside-based topical emulsions: the colloidal structure, stability and efficacy evaluation. in International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Wiley-Blackwell, Hoboken., 34(5), 424-434.
https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00732.x
Tasić-Kostov M, Pavlović DR, Lukić M, Jaksić I, Arsić I, Savić S. Lactobionic acid as antioxidant and moisturizing active in alkyl polyglucoside-based topical emulsions: the colloidal structure, stability and efficacy evaluation. in International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2012;34(5):424-434.
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00732.x .
Tasić-Kostov, Marija, Pavlović, Dragana R., Lukić, Milica, Jaksić, I., Arsić, I., Savić, Snežana, "Lactobionic acid as antioxidant and moisturizing active in alkyl polyglucoside-based topical emulsions: the colloidal structure, stability and efficacy evaluation" in International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 34, no. 5 (2012):424-434,
https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00732.x . .
3
29
21
28

Does lactobionic acid affect the colloidal structure and skin moisturizing potential of the alkyl polyglucoside-based emulsion systems?

Tasić-Kostov, Marija; Reichl, Stephan; Lukić, Milica; Jaksić, I. N.; Savić, Snežana

(Govi-Verlag Pharmazeutischer Verlag Gmbh, Eschborn, 2011)

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Tasić-Kostov, Marija
AU  - Reichl, Stephan
AU  - Lukić, Milica
AU  - Jaksić, I. N.
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2011
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/1513
AB  - Moisturizing creams are the most prescribed products in dermatology, essential in maintaining healthy skin as well as in the topical treatment of some diseases. The irritation potential of commonly used emulsifiers and moisturizing ingredients, but also their mutual interactions, could affect the functionality and safety of those dermopharmaceutics. The aim of this study was to promote moisturizing alkyl polyglucoside (APG)-based emulsion as vehicle for lactobionic acid (LA), advantageous representative of the alphahydroxyacids (AHAs)-multifunctional moisturizers, assessing the safety for use (in vitro acute skin irritation test using cytotoxicity assay compared with in vivo data obtained using skin bioengineering methods) and in vivo moisturizing capacity (bioengineering of the skin). In order to investigate possible interactions between APG mild natural emulsifier-based emulsion and LA, a deeper insight into the colloidal structure of the placebo and the emulsion with LA was given using polarization and transmission electron microscopy, rheology, thermal and texture analysis. This study showed that APG-based emulsions could be promoted as safe cosmetic/dermopharmaceutical vehicles and carriers for extremely acidic and hygroscopic AHA class of actives (specifically LA); prospective safety for human use of both APG and LA with the correlation between in vivo and in vitro findings was shown. However, it was revealed that LA strongly influenced the colloidal structure of the emulsion based on APGs and promoted the formation of lamellar structures which reflects onto the mode of water distribution within the cream. The advantageous skin hydrating potential of LA-containing emulsion vs. placebo was unlikely to be achieved, pointing that emulsions stabilized by lamellar liquid crystalline structures probably are not satisfying carriers for highly hygroscopic actives in order to reach the full moisturizing potential. Safe and effective use on dry skin is presumed.
PB  - Govi-Verlag  Pharmazeutischer Verlag Gmbh, Eschborn
T2  - Pharmazie
T1  - Does lactobionic acid affect the colloidal structure and skin moisturizing potential of the alkyl polyglucoside-based emulsion systems?
VL  - 66
IS  - 11
SP  - 862
EP  - 870
DO  - 10.1691/ph.2011.1066
ER  - 
@article{
author = "Tasić-Kostov, Marija and Reichl, Stephan and Lukić, Milica and Jaksić, I. N. and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2011",
abstract = "Moisturizing creams are the most prescribed products in dermatology, essential in maintaining healthy skin as well as in the topical treatment of some diseases. The irritation potential of commonly used emulsifiers and moisturizing ingredients, but also their mutual interactions, could affect the functionality and safety of those dermopharmaceutics. The aim of this study was to promote moisturizing alkyl polyglucoside (APG)-based emulsion as vehicle for lactobionic acid (LA), advantageous representative of the alphahydroxyacids (AHAs)-multifunctional moisturizers, assessing the safety for use (in vitro acute skin irritation test using cytotoxicity assay compared with in vivo data obtained using skin bioengineering methods) and in vivo moisturizing capacity (bioengineering of the skin). In order to investigate possible interactions between APG mild natural emulsifier-based emulsion and LA, a deeper insight into the colloidal structure of the placebo and the emulsion with LA was given using polarization and transmission electron microscopy, rheology, thermal and texture analysis. This study showed that APG-based emulsions could be promoted as safe cosmetic/dermopharmaceutical vehicles and carriers for extremely acidic and hygroscopic AHA class of actives (specifically LA); prospective safety for human use of both APG and LA with the correlation between in vivo and in vitro findings was shown. However, it was revealed that LA strongly influenced the colloidal structure of the emulsion based on APGs and promoted the formation of lamellar structures which reflects onto the mode of water distribution within the cream. The advantageous skin hydrating potential of LA-containing emulsion vs. placebo was unlikely to be achieved, pointing that emulsions stabilized by lamellar liquid crystalline structures probably are not satisfying carriers for highly hygroscopic actives in order to reach the full moisturizing potential. Safe and effective use on dry skin is presumed.",
publisher = "Govi-Verlag  Pharmazeutischer Verlag Gmbh, Eschborn",
journal = "Pharmazie",
title = "Does lactobionic acid affect the colloidal structure and skin moisturizing potential of the alkyl polyglucoside-based emulsion systems?",
volume = "66",
number = "11",
pages = "862-870",
doi = "10.1691/ph.2011.1066"
}
Tasić-Kostov, M., Reichl, S., Lukić, M., Jaksić, I. N.,& Savić, S.. (2011). Does lactobionic acid affect the colloidal structure and skin moisturizing potential of the alkyl polyglucoside-based emulsion systems?. in Pharmazie
Govi-Verlag  Pharmazeutischer Verlag Gmbh, Eschborn., 66(11), 862-870.
https://doi.org/10.1691/ph.2011.1066
Tasić-Kostov M, Reichl S, Lukić M, Jaksić IN, Savić S. Does lactobionic acid affect the colloidal structure and skin moisturizing potential of the alkyl polyglucoside-based emulsion systems?. in Pharmazie. 2011;66(11):862-870.
doi:10.1691/ph.2011.1066 .
Tasić-Kostov, Marija, Reichl, Stephan, Lukić, Milica, Jaksić, I. N., Savić, Snežana, "Does lactobionic acid affect the colloidal structure and skin moisturizing potential of the alkyl polyglucoside-based emulsion systems?" in Pharmazie, 66, no. 11 (2011):862-870,
https://doi.org/10.1691/ph.2011.1066 . .
13
14

Two alkyl polyglucoside natural surfactants varying in chain length in stabilization of lactobionic acid containing emulsions: physicochemical characterization and in vitro irritation potential assessment

Tasić-Kostov, Marija; Reichl, Stephan; Lukić, Milica; Jaksić, I.; Savić, Snežana

(Servizi Editoriali Assoc Srl, Como, 2011)

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Tasić-Kostov, Marija
AU  - Reichl, Stephan
AU  - Lukić, Milica
AU  - Jaksić, I.
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2011
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/1490
AB  - There is a growing need for research into new skin and environmentally-friendly actives and surfactants in the field of cosmetics. This paper focuses on different natural alkylpolyglucoside (APG) emulsifiers (cetearyl alcohol and coco glucoside; arachidyl behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside), which can form lyotropic liquid crystals, in order to promote them as cosmetic excipients. APG-based emulsions as carriers for extremely hygroscopic and acidic cosmetic active, lactobionic acid (LA), belonging to alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) were also studied. In the first part of the study, physicochemical properties (assessed by rheology, polarization microscopy and pH and conductivity measurements) and in vitro safety profile (skin irritation test using a cytotoxicity assay) of vehicles were determined in order to compare and estimate their applicability as cosmetic excipients. In the second part, the same methods were conducted in order to establish how those emulsions perform as carriers for different percents of LA. The study showed that both vehicles based on different APGs could be promoted as cosmetic excipients. Either of the APG based emulsions could be vehicles for 6% LA. Cetearyl alcohol and coco glucoside, more hydrophillic emulsifier, is acceptable carrier for 10% LA due to better cytotoxicity profile. The importance of a better cytotoxicity profile without neglecting satisfying physical stability for cosmetic formulations was emphasized.
PB  - Servizi Editoriali Assoc Srl, Como
T2  - RSC Advances
T1  - Two alkyl polyglucoside natural surfactants varying in chain length in stabilization of lactobionic acid containing emulsions: physicochemical characterization and in vitro irritation potential assessment
VL  - 88
IS  - 4
SP  - 256
EP  - 264
UR  - https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_farfar_1490
ER  - 
@article{
author = "Tasić-Kostov, Marija and Reichl, Stephan and Lukić, Milica and Jaksić, I. and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2011",
abstract = "There is a growing need for research into new skin and environmentally-friendly actives and surfactants in the field of cosmetics. This paper focuses on different natural alkylpolyglucoside (APG) emulsifiers (cetearyl alcohol and coco glucoside; arachidyl behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside), which can form lyotropic liquid crystals, in order to promote them as cosmetic excipients. APG-based emulsions as carriers for extremely hygroscopic and acidic cosmetic active, lactobionic acid (LA), belonging to alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) were also studied. In the first part of the study, physicochemical properties (assessed by rheology, polarization microscopy and pH and conductivity measurements) and in vitro safety profile (skin irritation test using a cytotoxicity assay) of vehicles were determined in order to compare and estimate their applicability as cosmetic excipients. In the second part, the same methods were conducted in order to establish how those emulsions perform as carriers for different percents of LA. The study showed that both vehicles based on different APGs could be promoted as cosmetic excipients. Either of the APG based emulsions could be vehicles for 6% LA. Cetearyl alcohol and coco glucoside, more hydrophillic emulsifier, is acceptable carrier for 10% LA due to better cytotoxicity profile. The importance of a better cytotoxicity profile without neglecting satisfying physical stability for cosmetic formulations was emphasized.",
publisher = "Servizi Editoriali Assoc Srl, Como",
journal = "RSC Advances",
title = "Two alkyl polyglucoside natural surfactants varying in chain length in stabilization of lactobionic acid containing emulsions: physicochemical characterization and in vitro irritation potential assessment",
volume = "88",
number = "4",
pages = "256-264",
url = "https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_farfar_1490"
}
Tasić-Kostov, M., Reichl, S., Lukić, M., Jaksić, I.,& Savić, S.. (2011). Two alkyl polyglucoside natural surfactants varying in chain length in stabilization of lactobionic acid containing emulsions: physicochemical characterization and in vitro irritation potential assessment. in RSC Advances
Servizi Editoriali Assoc Srl, Como., 88(4), 256-264.
https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_farfar_1490
Tasić-Kostov M, Reichl S, Lukić M, Jaksić I, Savić S. Two alkyl polyglucoside natural surfactants varying in chain length in stabilization of lactobionic acid containing emulsions: physicochemical characterization and in vitro irritation potential assessment. in RSC Advances. 2011;88(4):256-264.
https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_farfar_1490 .
Tasić-Kostov, Marija, Reichl, Stephan, Lukić, Milica, Jaksić, I., Savić, Snežana, "Two alkyl polyglucoside natural surfactants varying in chain length in stabilization of lactobionic acid containing emulsions: physicochemical characterization and in vitro irritation potential assessment" in RSC Advances, 88, no. 4 (2011):256-264,
https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_farfar_1490 .
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Lactobionic acid in a natural alkylpolyglucoside-based vehicle: assessing safety and efficacy aspects in comparison to glycolic acid

Tasić-Kostov, Marija; Savić, Snežana; Lukić, Milica; Tamburić, Slobodanka; Pavlović, Miloš; Vuleta, Gordana

(Wiley Periodicals, Inc, Malden, 2010)

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Tasić-Kostov, Marija
AU  - Savić, Snežana
AU  - Lukić, Milica
AU  - Tamburić, Slobodanka
AU  - Pavlović, Miloš
AU  - Vuleta, Gordana
PY  - 2010
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/1393
AB  - Background/aims Lactobionic acid (LA) is a newer cosmeceutical active belonging to the class of alpha-hydroxyacids (AHAs), showing advantages over them. The aim of part I of this study was to compare efficacy and irritation potential of LA vs. glycolic acid (GA) from two types of vehicles - gel and emulsion. In part II, effects of LA-containing emulsions based on a new, natural emulsifier of alkylpolyglucoside (APG) type were evaluated. Methods Skin bioengineering was used on 77 healthy volunteers to assess: color as erythema and melanin (MI) index, transepidermal water loss, electrical capacitance and pH of the skin. In part I of the study, the parameters were measured after occlusion and periodically during 2 weeks of test samples application; in part II parameters were measured periodically during 4 weeks. Results/conclusion LA-containing samples has produced better skin performance when compared with corresponding GA-containing ones, particularly the lack of both skin irritation and skin barrier impairment. When used in vehicles based on a new APG-emulsifier, LA and GA have shown better efficacy, emphasizing the importance of vehicle on the effects of topical actives. LA (6%) in the emulsion based on APGs could be proposed as an alternative to low-molecular AHAs in cosmeceuticals.
PB  - Wiley Periodicals, Inc, Malden
T2  - Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
T1  - Lactobionic acid in a natural alkylpolyglucoside-based vehicle: assessing safety and efficacy aspects in comparison to glycolic acid
VL  - 9
IS  - 1
SP  - 3
EP  - 10
DO  - 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2010.00474.x
ER  - 
@article{
author = "Tasić-Kostov, Marija and Savić, Snežana and Lukić, Milica and Tamburić, Slobodanka and Pavlović, Miloš and Vuleta, Gordana",
year = "2010",
abstract = "Background/aims Lactobionic acid (LA) is a newer cosmeceutical active belonging to the class of alpha-hydroxyacids (AHAs), showing advantages over them. The aim of part I of this study was to compare efficacy and irritation potential of LA vs. glycolic acid (GA) from two types of vehicles - gel and emulsion. In part II, effects of LA-containing emulsions based on a new, natural emulsifier of alkylpolyglucoside (APG) type were evaluated. Methods Skin bioengineering was used on 77 healthy volunteers to assess: color as erythema and melanin (MI) index, transepidermal water loss, electrical capacitance and pH of the skin. In part I of the study, the parameters were measured after occlusion and periodically during 2 weeks of test samples application; in part II parameters were measured periodically during 4 weeks. Results/conclusion LA-containing samples has produced better skin performance when compared with corresponding GA-containing ones, particularly the lack of both skin irritation and skin barrier impairment. When used in vehicles based on a new APG-emulsifier, LA and GA have shown better efficacy, emphasizing the importance of vehicle on the effects of topical actives. LA (6%) in the emulsion based on APGs could be proposed as an alternative to low-molecular AHAs in cosmeceuticals.",
publisher = "Wiley Periodicals, Inc, Malden",
journal = "Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology",
title = "Lactobionic acid in a natural alkylpolyglucoside-based vehicle: assessing safety and efficacy aspects in comparison to glycolic acid",
volume = "9",
number = "1",
pages = "3-10",
doi = "10.1111/j.1473-2165.2010.00474.x"
}
Tasić-Kostov, M., Savić, S., Lukić, M., Tamburić, S., Pavlović, M.,& Vuleta, G.. (2010). Lactobionic acid in a natural alkylpolyglucoside-based vehicle: assessing safety and efficacy aspects in comparison to glycolic acid. in Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
Wiley Periodicals, Inc, Malden., 9(1), 3-10.
https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2010.00474.x
Tasić-Kostov M, Savić S, Lukić M, Tamburić S, Pavlović M, Vuleta G. Lactobionic acid in a natural alkylpolyglucoside-based vehicle: assessing safety and efficacy aspects in comparison to glycolic acid. in Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2010;9(1):3-10.
doi:10.1111/j.1473-2165.2010.00474.x .
Tasić-Kostov, Marija, Savić, Snežana, Lukić, Milica, Tamburić, Slobodanka, Pavlović, Miloš, Vuleta, Gordana, "Lactobionic acid in a natural alkylpolyglucoside-based vehicle: assessing safety and efficacy aspects in comparison to glycolic acid" in Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 9, no. 1 (2010):3-10,
https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2010.00474.x . .
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