TY  - CONF
AU  - Ćirić, Ana
AU  - Božić, Dragana
AU  - Filipović, Mila
AU  - Lukić, Milica
PY  - 2023
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/5350
AB  - An important contribution to sustainability is research into the usability of ingredients from waste materials (1). Therefore, the aim of our work was to investigate the contribution of ethanol extracts from wheat, corn, ...
PB  - APGI – “Association de Pharmacie Galénique Industrielle”
C3  - 6th Symposium Skin and Formulation, 2-3 October, 2023, Nantes - France
T1  - Contribution of ethanol extracts from wheat, corn and sunflower waste material to the properties and effects of cosmetic products
SP  - 48
EP  - 48
UR  - https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_farfar_5350
ER  - 

@conference{
author = "Ćirić, Ana and Božić, Dragana and Filipović, Mila and Lukić, Milica",
year = "2023",
abstract = "An important contribution to sustainability is research into the usability of ingredients from waste materials (1). Therefore, the aim of our work was to investigate the contribution of ethanol extracts from wheat, corn, ...",
publisher = "APGI – “Association de Pharmacie Galénique Industrielle”",
journal = "6th Symposium Skin and Formulation, 2-3 October, 2023, Nantes - France",
title = "Contribution of ethanol extracts from wheat, corn and sunflower waste material to the properties and effects of cosmetic products",
pages = "48-48",
url = "https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_farfar_5350"
}

Ćirić, A., Božić, D., Filipović, M.,& Lukić, M.. (2023). Contribution of ethanol extracts from wheat, corn and sunflower waste material to the properties and effects of cosmetic products. in 6th Symposium Skin and Formulation, 2-3 October, 2023, Nantes - France
APGI – “Association de Pharmacie Galénique Industrielle”., 48-48.
https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_farfar_5350

Ćirić A, Božić D, Filipović M, Lukić M. Contribution of ethanol extracts from wheat, corn and sunflower waste material to the properties and effects of cosmetic products. in 6th Symposium Skin and Formulation, 2-3 October, 2023, Nantes - France. 2023;:48-48.
https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_farfar_5350 .

Ćirić, Ana, Božić, Dragana, Filipović, Mila, Lukić, Milica, "Contribution of ethanol extracts from wheat, corn and sunflower waste material to the properties and effects of cosmetic products" in 6th Symposium Skin and Formulation, 2-3 October, 2023, Nantes - France (2023):48-48,
https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_farfar_5350 .

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Lukić, Milica
AU  - Filipović, Mila
AU  - Pajić, Nevena
AU  - Lunter, Dominique
AU  - Božić, Dragana
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2021
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/3912
AB  - Objective: The acidic skin pH is one of the regulating factors of skin barrier homeostasis. Topical products as extrinsic factors which influence skin pH could be used for acidification of the skin and consequent beneficial effect. To formulate stabile and safe topical emulsion product with low pH is on-going challenge and areas interesting to explore are related to the effect of acidic products on the skin pH together with development of protocols for these studies. Aim of our work was to investigate formulations of acidic topical products with glycolic acid (GA) stabilized with long chain alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier, in regard to the specific colloidal structure of the vehicle, together with effect of products with different concentration of acidic active on skin pH. Methods: Investigated formulations were basic vehicle and two creams with glycolic acid (concentration 2 and 10 wt%). Microstructure was investigated by polarization microscopy, Raman spectral imaging, thermal analysis and rheological measurements. Effects on the skin were assessed by measurement of biophysical skin parameters in vivo studies (5-hour, 24-hour and 7-days). In vitro screening of antimicrobial activity was performed against bacteria Staphylococcus epidermidis. Results: Polarization micrographs and Raman images have shown that GA does not disturb the specific colloidal structure. Together with rheological and thermal analysis obtained results have shown that GA in higher concentrations contributes to vehicles’ lamellar structure. In 5-hour study the mean values of skin pH ranged from 3.98-4.25 and 3.89-4.10 after application of products with smaller and higher GA concentration. GA samples lowered skin surface pH to 5 and less in 24-hour and 7-day study, with stronger effect of sample with more GA. Sample with 10% of GA had significant inhibitory effect on growth of S. epidermidis in 1:1 concentration. Conclusions: Investigated APG emulsifier could be used as a stabilizer for acidic topical products with GA which are characterized by satisfactory safety profile. Topical products induce acidification of the skin after short- and long-term application without barrier impairment or sign of irritation. Acidification of the skin depends on presence of ingredients which are proton donors and their concentrations.
PB  - Blackwell Publishing Ltd
T2  - International Journal of Cosmetic Science
T1  - Formulation of topical acidic products and acidification of the skin – Contribution of glycolic acid
DO  - 10.1111/ics.12707
ER  - 

@article{
author = "Lukić, Milica and Filipović, Mila and Pajić, Nevena and Lunter, Dominique and Božić, Dragana and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2021",
abstract = "Objective: The acidic skin pH is one of the regulating factors of skin barrier homeostasis. Topical products as extrinsic factors which influence skin pH could be used for acidification of the skin and consequent beneficial effect. To formulate stabile and safe topical emulsion product with low pH is on-going challenge and areas interesting to explore are related to the effect of acidic products on the skin pH together with development of protocols for these studies. Aim of our work was to investigate formulations of acidic topical products with glycolic acid (GA) stabilized with long chain alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier, in regard to the specific colloidal structure of the vehicle, together with effect of products with different concentration of acidic active on skin pH. Methods: Investigated formulations were basic vehicle and two creams with glycolic acid (concentration 2 and 10 wt%). Microstructure was investigated by polarization microscopy, Raman spectral imaging, thermal analysis and rheological measurements. Effects on the skin were assessed by measurement of biophysical skin parameters in vivo studies (5-hour, 24-hour and 7-days). In vitro screening of antimicrobial activity was performed against bacteria Staphylococcus epidermidis. Results: Polarization micrographs and Raman images have shown that GA does not disturb the specific colloidal structure. Together with rheological and thermal analysis obtained results have shown that GA in higher concentrations contributes to vehicles’ lamellar structure. In 5-hour study the mean values of skin pH ranged from 3.98-4.25 and 3.89-4.10 after application of products with smaller and higher GA concentration. GA samples lowered skin surface pH to 5 and less in 24-hour and 7-day study, with stronger effect of sample with more GA. Sample with 10% of GA had significant inhibitory effect on growth of S. epidermidis in 1:1 concentration. Conclusions: Investigated APG emulsifier could be used as a stabilizer for acidic topical products with GA which are characterized by satisfactory safety profile. Topical products induce acidification of the skin after short- and long-term application without barrier impairment or sign of irritation. Acidification of the skin depends on presence of ingredients which are proton donors and their concentrations.",
publisher = "Blackwell Publishing Ltd",
journal = "International Journal of Cosmetic Science",
title = "Formulation of topical acidic products and acidification of the skin – Contribution of glycolic acid",
doi = "10.1111/ics.12707"
}

Lukić, M., Filipović, M., Pajić, N., Lunter, D., Božić, D.,& Savić, S.. (2021). Formulation of topical acidic products and acidification of the skin – Contribution of glycolic acid. in International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Blackwell Publishing Ltd..
https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12707

Lukić M, Filipović M, Pajić N, Lunter D, Božić D, Savić S. Formulation of topical acidic products and acidification of the skin – Contribution of glycolic acid. in International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2021;.
doi:10.1111/ics.12707 .

Lukić, Milica, Filipović, Mila, Pajić, Nevena, Lunter, Dominique, Božić, Dragana, Savić, Snežana, "Formulation of topical acidic products and acidification of the skin – Contribution of glycolic acid" in International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2021),
https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12707 . .

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Gledović, Ana
AU  - Janošević-Ležaić, Aleksandra
AU  - Krstonošić, Veljko
AU  - Đoković, Jelena
AU  - Nikolić, Ines
AU  - Bajuk-Bogdanović, Danica
AU  - Antić-Stanković, Jelena
AU  - Ranđelović, Danijela
AU  - Savić, Sanela M.
AU  - Filipović, Mila
AU  - Tamburić, Slobodanka
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2020
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/3581
AB  - Considering a growing demand for medicinal/cosmetic products with natural actives, this study focuses on the low-energy nanoemulsions (LE-NEs) prepared via the Phase inversion composition (PIC) method at room temperature as potential carriers for natural oil. Four different red raspberry seed oils (ROs) were tested, as follows: cold-pressed vs. CO2- extracted, organic vs. non-organic, refined vs. unrefined. The oil phase was optimized with Tocopheryl acetate and Isostearyl isostearate, while water phase was adjusted with either glycerol or an antioxidant hydro-glycolic extract. This study has used a combined approach to formulation development, employing both conventional methods (pseudo-ternary phase diagram - PTPD, electrical conductivity, particle size measurements, microscopical analysis, and rheological measurements) and the methods novel to this area, such as textural analysis and Raman spectroscopy. Raman spectroscopy has detected fine differences in chemical composition among ROs, and it detected the interactions within nanoemulsions. It was shown that the cold-pressed, unrefined, organic grade oil (RO2) with 6.62% saturated fatty acids and 92.25% unsaturated fatty acids, was optimal for the LE-NEs. Textural analysis confirmed the existence of cubic gel-like phase as a crucial step in the formation of stable RO2-loaded LE-NEs, with droplets in the narrow nano-range (125 to 135 nm; PDI ≤ 0.1). The DPPH test in methanol and ABTS in aqueous medium have revealed a synergistic free radical scavenging effect between lipophilic and hydrophilic antioxidants in LE-NEs. The nanoemulsion carrier has improved the biological effect of raw materials on HeLa cervical adenocarcinoma cells, while exhibiting good safety profile, as confirmed on MRC-5 normal human lung fibroblasts. Overall, this study has shown that low-energy nanoemulsions present very promising carriers for topical delivery of natural bioactives. Raman spectroscopy and textural analysis have proven to be a useful addition to the arsenal of methods used in the formulation and characterization of nanoemulsion systems.
PB  - Public Library of Science
T2  - PLoS ONE
T1  - Low-energy nanoemulsions as carriers for red raspberry seed oil: Formulation approach based on Raman spectroscopy and textural analysis, physicochemical properties, stability and in vitro antioxidant/ biological activity
VL  - 15
IS  - 4
DO  - 10.1371/journal.pone.0230993
ER  - 

@article{
author = "Gledović, Ana and Janošević-Ležaić, Aleksandra and Krstonošić, Veljko and Đoković, Jelena and Nikolić, Ines and Bajuk-Bogdanović, Danica and Antić-Stanković, Jelena and Ranđelović, Danijela and Savić, Sanela M. and Filipović, Mila and Tamburić, Slobodanka and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2020",
abstract = "Considering a growing demand for medicinal/cosmetic products with natural actives, this study focuses on the low-energy nanoemulsions (LE-NEs) prepared via the Phase inversion composition (PIC) method at room temperature as potential carriers for natural oil. Four different red raspberry seed oils (ROs) were tested, as follows: cold-pressed vs. CO2- extracted, organic vs. non-organic, refined vs. unrefined. The oil phase was optimized with Tocopheryl acetate and Isostearyl isostearate, while water phase was adjusted with either glycerol or an antioxidant hydro-glycolic extract. This study has used a combined approach to formulation development, employing both conventional methods (pseudo-ternary phase diagram - PTPD, electrical conductivity, particle size measurements, microscopical analysis, and rheological measurements) and the methods novel to this area, such as textural analysis and Raman spectroscopy. Raman spectroscopy has detected fine differences in chemical composition among ROs, and it detected the interactions within nanoemulsions. It was shown that the cold-pressed, unrefined, organic grade oil (RO2) with 6.62% saturated fatty acids and 92.25% unsaturated fatty acids, was optimal for the LE-NEs. Textural analysis confirmed the existence of cubic gel-like phase as a crucial step in the formation of stable RO2-loaded LE-NEs, with droplets in the narrow nano-range (125 to 135 nm; PDI ≤ 0.1). The DPPH test in methanol and ABTS in aqueous medium have revealed a synergistic free radical scavenging effect between lipophilic and hydrophilic antioxidants in LE-NEs. The nanoemulsion carrier has improved the biological effect of raw materials on HeLa cervical adenocarcinoma cells, while exhibiting good safety profile, as confirmed on MRC-5 normal human lung fibroblasts. Overall, this study has shown that low-energy nanoemulsions present very promising carriers for topical delivery of natural bioactives. Raman spectroscopy and textural analysis have proven to be a useful addition to the arsenal of methods used in the formulation and characterization of nanoemulsion systems.",
publisher = "Public Library of Science",
journal = "PLoS ONE",
title = "Low-energy nanoemulsions as carriers for red raspberry seed oil: Formulation approach based on Raman spectroscopy and textural analysis, physicochemical properties, stability and in vitro antioxidant/ biological activity",
volume = "15",
number = "4",
doi = "10.1371/journal.pone.0230993"
}

Gledović, A., Janošević-Ležaić, A., Krstonošić, V., Đoković, J., Nikolić, I., Bajuk-Bogdanović, D., Antić-Stanković, J., Ranđelović, D., Savić, S. M., Filipović, M., Tamburić, S.,& Savić, S.. (2020). Low-energy nanoemulsions as carriers for red raspberry seed oil: Formulation approach based on Raman spectroscopy and textural analysis, physicochemical properties, stability and in vitro antioxidant/ biological activity. in PLoS ONE
Public Library of Science., 15(4).
https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0230993

Gledović A, Janošević-Ležaić A, Krstonošić V, Đoković J, Nikolić I, Bajuk-Bogdanović D, Antić-Stanković J, Ranđelović D, Savić SM, Filipović M, Tamburić S, Savić S. Low-energy nanoemulsions as carriers for red raspberry seed oil: Formulation approach based on Raman spectroscopy and textural analysis, physicochemical properties, stability and in vitro antioxidant/ biological activity. in PLoS ONE. 2020;15(4).
doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0230993 .

Gledović, Ana, Janošević-Ležaić, Aleksandra, Krstonošić, Veljko, Đoković, Jelena, Nikolić, Ines, Bajuk-Bogdanović, Danica, Antić-Stanković, Jelena, Ranđelović, Danijela, Savić, Sanela M., Filipović, Mila, Tamburić, Slobodanka, Savić, Snežana, "Low-energy nanoemulsions as carriers for red raspberry seed oil: Formulation approach based on Raman spectroscopy and textural analysis, physicochemical properties, stability and in vitro antioxidant/ biological activity" in PLoS ONE, 15, no. 4 (2020),
https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0230993 . .

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Filipović, Mila
AU  - Lukić, Milica
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2019
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/3489
AB  - Promene na koži i njenim adneksima, do kojih dolazi tokom trudnoće, često su uzrok
nezadovoljstva i razlog zbog koga trudnice i dojilje svakodnevno koriste brojne kozmetičke
proizvode i pokazuju interesovanje za različite estetske procedure. Premda bezbednost
kozmetičkih proizvoda mora biti potvrđena pre pojavljivanja na tržištu, činjenica je da se
njihova bezbednost, kao ni bezbednost estetskih procedura, ne procenjuje na trudnicama i
dojiljama. Izbor odgovarajućih proizvoda dodatno komplikuje odsustvo zvanične liste sastojaka
koje bi trebalo uzeti u razmatranje tokom trudnoće i laktacije, poput poznatih ili potencijalnih
endokrinih disruptora/ometača ili jedinjenja (potencijalno) toksičnih po reprodukciju. Dodatno,
ne postoje zvanične preporuke regulatornih tela i udruženja zdravstvenih profesionalaca, koje bi
olakšale izbor kozmetičkih proizvoda koje trudnice i dojilje mogu da koriste, ali i otklonile
eventualni strah od izlaganja ploda/bebe nebezbednim supstancama.
U ovom radu dat je pregled podataka vezanih za bezbednost određenih kozmetičkih
sastojaka, kao i različitih kategorija kozmetičkih proizvoda i neinvazivnih estetskih procedura,
uz pokušaj konsolidovanja podataka u konkretne preporuke vezane za izbor i njihovu primenu
tokom trudnoće i laktacije.
AB  - Changes of the skin and skin appendages, which occur during pregnancy, are often the
cause of discontentment and the reason why pregnant and breastfeeding women use numerous
cosmetic products on the daily basis and show the interest for the different aesthetic procedures.
Although safety of cosmetic products must be confirmed before the product is placed on the
market, the fact is that their safety, as well as the safety of aesthetic procedures, is not estimated
on pregnant or breastfeeding women. The selection of an appropriate product is further
complicated by the absence of the list of allowed raw materials which should be considered
during pregnancy and lactation, especially for substances that are known or potential endocrine
disruptors or substances which are (potentially) toxic for the reproduction. Additionally, there
are no official recommendations issued by the regulatory bodies or any healthcare associations,
which would facilitate the selection of cosmetic products during pregnancy and breastfeeding
and reduce the possible fear regarding the exposure of fetus/baby to unsafe ingredients.
The paper provides an overview of the safety data of the specified cosmetic ingredients,
different categories of cosmetic products and non-invasive aesthetic procedures, with an attempt
to consolidate those data into the specific recommendations regarding selection and their usage
during pregnancy and lactation.
PB  - Beograd : Savez farmaceutskih udruženja Srbije
T2  - Arhiv za farmaciju
T1  - Cosmetic products and non-invasive aesthetic procedures: safety of usage and recommendations regarding selection during pregnancy and lactation / Kozmetički proizvodi i neinvazivne estetske procedure: bezbednost primene i preporuke za izbor tokom trudnoće i laktacije
VL  - 69
IS  - 3
SP  - 199
EP  - 212
DO  - 10.5937/arhfarm1903199F
ER  - 

@article{
author = "Filipović, Mila and Lukić, Milica and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2019",
abstract = "Promene na koži i njenim adneksima, do kojih dolazi tokom trudnoće, često su uzrok
nezadovoljstva i razlog zbog koga trudnice i dojilje svakodnevno koriste brojne kozmetičke
proizvode i pokazuju interesovanje za različite estetske procedure. Premda bezbednost
kozmetičkih proizvoda mora biti potvrđena pre pojavljivanja na tržištu, činjenica je da se
njihova bezbednost, kao ni bezbednost estetskih procedura, ne procenjuje na trudnicama i
dojiljama. Izbor odgovarajućih proizvoda dodatno komplikuje odsustvo zvanične liste sastojaka
koje bi trebalo uzeti u razmatranje tokom trudnoće i laktacije, poput poznatih ili potencijalnih
endokrinih disruptora/ometača ili jedinjenja (potencijalno) toksičnih po reprodukciju. Dodatno,
ne postoje zvanične preporuke regulatornih tela i udruženja zdravstvenih profesionalaca, koje bi
olakšale izbor kozmetičkih proizvoda koje trudnice i dojilje mogu da koriste, ali i otklonile
eventualni strah od izlaganja ploda/bebe nebezbednim supstancama.
U ovom radu dat je pregled podataka vezanih za bezbednost određenih kozmetičkih
sastojaka, kao i različitih kategorija kozmetičkih proizvoda i neinvazivnih estetskih procedura,
uz pokušaj konsolidovanja podataka u konkretne preporuke vezane za izbor i njihovu primenu
tokom trudnoće i laktacije., Changes of the skin and skin appendages, which occur during pregnancy, are often the
cause of discontentment and the reason why pregnant and breastfeeding women use numerous
cosmetic products on the daily basis and show the interest for the different aesthetic procedures.
Although safety of cosmetic products must be confirmed before the product is placed on the
market, the fact is that their safety, as well as the safety of aesthetic procedures, is not estimated
on pregnant or breastfeeding women. The selection of an appropriate product is further
complicated by the absence of the list of allowed raw materials which should be considered
during pregnancy and lactation, especially for substances that are known or potential endocrine
disruptors or substances which are (potentially) toxic for the reproduction. Additionally, there
are no official recommendations issued by the regulatory bodies or any healthcare associations,
which would facilitate the selection of cosmetic products during pregnancy and breastfeeding
and reduce the possible fear regarding the exposure of fetus/baby to unsafe ingredients.
The paper provides an overview of the safety data of the specified cosmetic ingredients,
different categories of cosmetic products and non-invasive aesthetic procedures, with an attempt
to consolidate those data into the specific recommendations regarding selection and their usage
during pregnancy and lactation.",
publisher = "Beograd : Savez farmaceutskih udruženja Srbije",
journal = "Arhiv za farmaciju",
title = "Cosmetic products and non-invasive aesthetic procedures: safety of usage and recommendations regarding selection during pregnancy and lactation / Kozmetički proizvodi i neinvazivne estetske procedure: bezbednost primene i preporuke za izbor tokom trudnoće i laktacije",
volume = "69",
number = "3",
pages = "199-212",
doi = "10.5937/arhfarm1903199F"
}

Filipović, M., Lukić, M.,& Savić, S.. (2019). Cosmetic products and non-invasive aesthetic procedures: safety of usage and recommendations regarding selection during pregnancy and lactation / Kozmetički proizvodi i neinvazivne estetske procedure: bezbednost primene i preporuke za izbor tokom trudnoće i laktacije. in Arhiv za farmaciju
Beograd : Savez farmaceutskih udruženja Srbije., 69(3), 199-212.
https://doi.org/10.5937/arhfarm1903199F

Filipović M, Lukić M, Savić S. Cosmetic products and non-invasive aesthetic procedures: safety of usage and recommendations regarding selection during pregnancy and lactation / Kozmetički proizvodi i neinvazivne estetske procedure: bezbednost primene i preporuke za izbor tokom trudnoće i laktacije. in Arhiv za farmaciju. 2019;69(3):199-212.
doi:10.5937/arhfarm1903199F .

Filipović, Mila, Lukić, Milica, Savić, Snežana, "Cosmetic products and non-invasive aesthetic procedures: safety of usage and recommendations regarding selection during pregnancy and lactation / Kozmetički proizvodi i neinvazivne estetske procedure: bezbednost primene i preporuke za izbor tokom trudnoće i laktacije" in Arhiv za farmaciju, 69, no. 3 (2019):199-212,
https://doi.org/10.5937/arhfarm1903199F . .

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Filipović, Mila
AU  - Lukić, Milica
AU  - Savić, Snežana
AU  - Vuleta, Gordana
PY  - 2018
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/3100
AB  - In the cosmetic industry, a frequent anti-aging approach is the protection of cells responsible for the continuous skin renewal and the maintenance of its barrier function - epidermal stem cells, using the secondary metabolites and epigenetic factors of the plant stem cells. Alp rose stem cells (ARSC) extract in liposomes is used as a cosmetic active ingredient in the cosmetic products for the skin care and its protection. According to the manufacturer, this cosmetic active ingredient possess the ability to increase the vitality of epidermal stem cells, protects them against the negative external influences, affects the regeneration of epidermal cells, improves the skin barrier function and has certain anti-aging effects. However, in order for these effects to be observed in in vivo conditions and for ARSC epigenetic factors and secondary metabolites to reach their target places, liposomes in the cosmetic products should remain intact and unchanged. Therefore, according to the EU regulations on the cosmetic products (Regulations 1223/2009 and 655/2013), cosmetic products with plant (alp rose) stem cells can not be attributed to the effects of the containing cosmetic ingredients, and any claims about the each product efficacy has to be supported by the data obtained on the human volunteers.
AB  - U industriji kozmetičkih proizvoda, čest anti-aging pristup jeste zaštita ćelija odgovornih za kontinuirano obnavljanje kože i održavanje njene barijerne funkcije - epidermalnih matičnih ćelija, upotrebom sekundarnih metabolita i epigenetskih faktora biljnih matičnih ćelija. Kao kozmetički aktivna supstanca (KAS) u proizvodima za negu i zaštitu kože, koristi se i ekstrakt matičnih ćelija alpske ruže (MĆAR) inkapsuliran u liposome, za koji proizvođač navodi da povećava otpornost humanih matičnih ćelija kože, štiti ih od negativnih spoljašnjih uticaja, utiče na regeneraciju epidermalnih ćelija, popravlja barijernu funkciju kože i ima određene anti-aging efekte. Međutim, da bi pomenuti efekti bili ispoljeni i u in vivo uslovima, a epigenetski faktori i sekundarni metaboliti MĆAR stigli do ciljnih mesta njihovog delovanja, liposomi u kozmetičkom proizvodu treba da ostanu neoštećeni i neizmenjenih osobina. Stoga, shodno važećim propisima o kozmetičkim proizvodima u EU (Uredbe 1223/2009 i 655/2013), gotovim kozmetičkim proizvodima sa biljnim matičnim ćelijama (alpske ruže) se ne mogu pripisati kozmetički efekti sastojaka koje sadrže, već eventualne tvrdnje o efikasnosti svakog proizvoda treba potkrepiti dokumentacijom o proceni njegovih efekata na humanim dobrovoljcima.
PB  - Savez farmaceutskih udruženja Srbije, Beograd
T2  - Arhiv za farmaciju
T1  - Alp rose stem cells as cosmetic creams ingredient: Expected and established creams effects on the skin
T1  - Matične ćelije alpske ruže kao sastojci kozmetičkih kremova - očekivani i utvrđeni efekti kremova na koži
VL  - 68
IS  - 4
SP  - 874
EP  - 884
DO  - 10.5937/ArhFarm1804874F
ER  - 

@article{
author = "Filipović, Mila and Lukić, Milica and Savić, Snežana and Vuleta, Gordana",
year = "2018",
abstract = "In the cosmetic industry, a frequent anti-aging approach is the protection of cells responsible for the continuous skin renewal and the maintenance of its barrier function - epidermal stem cells, using the secondary metabolites and epigenetic factors of the plant stem cells. Alp rose stem cells (ARSC) extract in liposomes is used as a cosmetic active ingredient in the cosmetic products for the skin care and its protection. According to the manufacturer, this cosmetic active ingredient possess the ability to increase the vitality of epidermal stem cells, protects them against the negative external influences, affects the regeneration of epidermal cells, improves the skin barrier function and has certain anti-aging effects. However, in order for these effects to be observed in in vivo conditions and for ARSC epigenetic factors and secondary metabolites to reach their target places, liposomes in the cosmetic products should remain intact and unchanged. Therefore, according to the EU regulations on the cosmetic products (Regulations 1223/2009 and 655/2013), cosmetic products with plant (alp rose) stem cells can not be attributed to the effects of the containing cosmetic ingredients, and any claims about the each product efficacy has to be supported by the data obtained on the human volunteers., U industriji kozmetičkih proizvoda, čest anti-aging pristup jeste zaštita ćelija odgovornih za kontinuirano obnavljanje kože i održavanje njene barijerne funkcije - epidermalnih matičnih ćelija, upotrebom sekundarnih metabolita i epigenetskih faktora biljnih matičnih ćelija. Kao kozmetički aktivna supstanca (KAS) u proizvodima za negu i zaštitu kože, koristi se i ekstrakt matičnih ćelija alpske ruže (MĆAR) inkapsuliran u liposome, za koji proizvođač navodi da povećava otpornost humanih matičnih ćelija kože, štiti ih od negativnih spoljašnjih uticaja, utiče na regeneraciju epidermalnih ćelija, popravlja barijernu funkciju kože i ima određene anti-aging efekte. Međutim, da bi pomenuti efekti bili ispoljeni i u in vivo uslovima, a epigenetski faktori i sekundarni metaboliti MĆAR stigli do ciljnih mesta njihovog delovanja, liposomi u kozmetičkom proizvodu treba da ostanu neoštećeni i neizmenjenih osobina. Stoga, shodno važećim propisima o kozmetičkim proizvodima u EU (Uredbe 1223/2009 i 655/2013), gotovim kozmetičkim proizvodima sa biljnim matičnim ćelijama (alpske ruže) se ne mogu pripisati kozmetički efekti sastojaka koje sadrže, već eventualne tvrdnje o efikasnosti svakog proizvoda treba potkrepiti dokumentacijom o proceni njegovih efekata na humanim dobrovoljcima.",
publisher = "Savez farmaceutskih udruženja Srbije, Beograd",
journal = "Arhiv za farmaciju",
title = "Alp rose stem cells as cosmetic creams ingredient: Expected and established creams effects on the skin, Matične ćelije alpske ruže kao sastojci kozmetičkih kremova - očekivani i utvrđeni efekti kremova na koži",
volume = "68",
number = "4",
pages = "874-884",
doi = "10.5937/ArhFarm1804874F"
}

Filipović, M., Lukić, M., Savić, S.,& Vuleta, G.. (2018). Alp rose stem cells as cosmetic creams ingredient: Expected and established creams effects on the skin. in Arhiv za farmaciju
Savez farmaceutskih udruženja Srbije, Beograd., 68(4), 874-884.
https://doi.org/10.5937/ArhFarm1804874F

Filipović M, Lukić M, Savić S, Vuleta G. Alp rose stem cells as cosmetic creams ingredient: Expected and established creams effects on the skin. in Arhiv za farmaciju. 2018;68(4):874-884.
doi:10.5937/ArhFarm1804874F .

Filipović, Mila, Lukić, Milica, Savić, Snežana, Vuleta, Gordana, "Alp rose stem cells as cosmetic creams ingredient: Expected and established creams effects on the skin" in Arhiv za farmaciju, 68, no. 4 (2018):874-884,
https://doi.org/10.5937/ArhFarm1804874F . .

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Filipović, Mila
AU  - Gledović, Ana
AU  - Lukić, Milica
AU  - Tasić-Kostov, Marija
AU  - Isailović, Tanja
AU  - Pantelić, Ivana
AU  - Vuleta, Gordana
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2016
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/2628
AB  - Background/Aim. Since skin moisturization may be achieved by both actives and chosen carrier, plant stem cells, squalene and natural alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier may be potential components of contemporary cosmetic products. The aim of the study was in vivo evaluation of the skin irritation potential and the efficacy of Alpine Rose stem cells incorporated into liposomes and olive oil squalene as ingredients of moisturizing creams, with respect to the novel emulsifier used for creams' stabilization. Methods. With the employment of noninvasive skin biophysical measurements, skin hydration (EC), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), erythema index (EI) and viscoelasticity were measured on 76 healthy volunteers. In the first phase, skin irritation after a 24-hour occlusion and the long-term efficacy of creams (a 21-day study) on healthy skin were evaluated. Phase II of the study focused on the cream efficacy assessment after a 6-day treatment of sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin. Results. After a 24-hour occlusion, there were no significant changes in the EI for any tested sample. In the second phase of the study, the EI was not significantly altered for the cream containing squalene, while the application of all active samples resulted in a significant reduction of TEWL. In both phases of the study an EC increase was recorded, especially for the squalene-containing cream. Conclusion. Due to the lack of skin irritation and skin barrier impairment along with the marked hydration effect, it could be said that the investigated actives incorporated into alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier-stabilized creams may be safely applied as ingredients for "tailor-made" cosmetic moisturizers intended for normal and dry skin care, whereas olive oil squalene could be used for the treatment of irritated or sensitive skin as well.
AB  - Uvod/Cilj. S obzirom na to da vlaženje kože može biti postignuto izborom kako aktivnih supstanci, tako i odgovarajućeg nosača, biljne matične ćelije, skvalen i prirodni alkil poliglukozidni emulgator mogu biti potencijalni sastojci savremenih kozmetičkih proizvoda. Cilj ovog rada bio je in vivo procena iritiranog potencijala i efikasnosti matičnih ćelija alpske ruže dodatih u liposome i skvalena maslinovog ulja, kao sastojaka vlažećih krema, imajući u vidu nov emulgator koji je korišćen za njihovu stabilizaciju. Metode. Upotrebom neinvazivnih metoda zasnovanih na biofizičkim merenjima na koži, kod 76 zdravih dobrovoljaca mereni su: hidratacija kože (EC), transepidermalni gubitak vlage (TEWL), eritema indeks (EI) i viskoelastičnost kože. U prvoj fazi studije vršena je procena iritacije kože nakon 24-h okluzije, kao i procena efikasnosti krema nakon primene na zdravoj koži dobrovoljaca u trajanju od 21 dana. Druga faza studije bila je bazirana na proceni efikasnosti krema nakon 6-dnevnog tretmana kože prethodno iritirane natrijum-lauril-sulfatom. Rezultati. Nakon 24-h okluzije nije bilo značajne promene vrednosti EI ni kod jednog ispitivanog krema. U drugoj fazi studije, krem sa skvalenom nije značajno uticao na promenu vrednosti EI, dok je primena svih aktivnih krema dovela do značajnog sniženja vrednosti TEWL. U obe faze studije zabeležen je porast EC, naročito nakon primene krema koji sadrži skvalen. Zaključak. Uzevši u obzir odsustvo nadraženosti kože i narušavanja kožne barijere, kao i porast hidratacije površinskog sloja kože, može se reći da se ispitivane aktivne supstance ubačene u kreme stabilizovane alkil-poliglukozidnim emulgatorom mogu bezbedno koristiti kao komponente tzv. "skrojenih" kozmetičkih ovlaživača namenjenih za negu zdrave i suve kože, dok se skvalen maslinovog ulja može koristiti i za negu iritirane i osetljive kože.
PB  - Vojnomedicinska akademija - Institut za naučne informacije, Beograd
T2  - Vojnosanitetski pregled
T1  - Alp Rose stem cells, olive oil squalene and a natural alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier: Are they appropriate ingredients of skin moisturizers - in vivo efficiency on normal and sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin?
T1  - Matične ćelije alpske ruže, skvalen maslinovog ulja i prirodni alkil-poliglukozidni emulgator - da li su odgovarajući sastojci kremova za vlaženje - in vivo efikasnost na zdravoj i koži iritiranoj natrijum lauril sulfatom?
VL  - 73
IS  - 11
SP  - 991
EP  - 1002
DO  - 10.2298/VSP150116122F
ER  - 

@article{
author = "Filipović, Mila and Gledović, Ana and Lukić, Milica and Tasić-Kostov, Marija and Isailović, Tanja and Pantelić, Ivana and Vuleta, Gordana and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2016",
abstract = "Background/Aim. Since skin moisturization may be achieved by both actives and chosen carrier, plant stem cells, squalene and natural alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier may be potential components of contemporary cosmetic products. The aim of the study was in vivo evaluation of the skin irritation potential and the efficacy of Alpine Rose stem cells incorporated into liposomes and olive oil squalene as ingredients of moisturizing creams, with respect to the novel emulsifier used for creams' stabilization. Methods. With the employment of noninvasive skin biophysical measurements, skin hydration (EC), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), erythema index (EI) and viscoelasticity were measured on 76 healthy volunteers. In the first phase, skin irritation after a 24-hour occlusion and the long-term efficacy of creams (a 21-day study) on healthy skin were evaluated. Phase II of the study focused on the cream efficacy assessment after a 6-day treatment of sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin. Results. After a 24-hour occlusion, there were no significant changes in the EI for any tested sample. In the second phase of the study, the EI was not significantly altered for the cream containing squalene, while the application of all active samples resulted in a significant reduction of TEWL. In both phases of the study an EC increase was recorded, especially for the squalene-containing cream. Conclusion. Due to the lack of skin irritation and skin barrier impairment along with the marked hydration effect, it could be said that the investigated actives incorporated into alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier-stabilized creams may be safely applied as ingredients for "tailor-made" cosmetic moisturizers intended for normal and dry skin care, whereas olive oil squalene could be used for the treatment of irritated or sensitive skin as well., Uvod/Cilj. S obzirom na to da vlaženje kože može biti postignuto izborom kako aktivnih supstanci, tako i odgovarajućeg nosača, biljne matične ćelije, skvalen i prirodni alkil poliglukozidni emulgator mogu biti potencijalni sastojci savremenih kozmetičkih proizvoda. Cilj ovog rada bio je in vivo procena iritiranog potencijala i efikasnosti matičnih ćelija alpske ruže dodatih u liposome i skvalena maslinovog ulja, kao sastojaka vlažećih krema, imajući u vidu nov emulgator koji je korišćen za njihovu stabilizaciju. Metode. Upotrebom neinvazivnih metoda zasnovanih na biofizičkim merenjima na koži, kod 76 zdravih dobrovoljaca mereni su: hidratacija kože (EC), transepidermalni gubitak vlage (TEWL), eritema indeks (EI) i viskoelastičnost kože. U prvoj fazi studije vršena je procena iritacije kože nakon 24-h okluzije, kao i procena efikasnosti krema nakon primene na zdravoj koži dobrovoljaca u trajanju od 21 dana. Druga faza studije bila je bazirana na proceni efikasnosti krema nakon 6-dnevnog tretmana kože prethodno iritirane natrijum-lauril-sulfatom. Rezultati. Nakon 24-h okluzije nije bilo značajne promene vrednosti EI ni kod jednog ispitivanog krema. U drugoj fazi studije, krem sa skvalenom nije značajno uticao na promenu vrednosti EI, dok je primena svih aktivnih krema dovela do značajnog sniženja vrednosti TEWL. U obe faze studije zabeležen je porast EC, naročito nakon primene krema koji sadrži skvalen. Zaključak. Uzevši u obzir odsustvo nadraženosti kože i narušavanja kožne barijere, kao i porast hidratacije površinskog sloja kože, može se reći da se ispitivane aktivne supstance ubačene u kreme stabilizovane alkil-poliglukozidnim emulgatorom mogu bezbedno koristiti kao komponente tzv. "skrojenih" kozmetičkih ovlaživača namenjenih za negu zdrave i suve kože, dok se skvalen maslinovog ulja može koristiti i za negu iritirane i osetljive kože.",
publisher = "Vojnomedicinska akademija - Institut za naučne informacije, Beograd",
journal = "Vojnosanitetski pregled",
title = "Alp Rose stem cells, olive oil squalene and a natural alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier: Are they appropriate ingredients of skin moisturizers - in vivo efficiency on normal and sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin?, Matične ćelije alpske ruže, skvalen maslinovog ulja i prirodni alkil-poliglukozidni emulgator - da li su odgovarajući sastojci kremova za vlaženje - in vivo efikasnost na zdravoj i koži iritiranoj natrijum lauril sulfatom?",
volume = "73",
number = "11",
pages = "991-1002",
doi = "10.2298/VSP150116122F"
}

Filipović, M., Gledović, A., Lukić, M., Tasić-Kostov, M., Isailović, T., Pantelić, I., Vuleta, G.,& Savić, S.. (2016). Alp Rose stem cells, olive oil squalene and a natural alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier: Are they appropriate ingredients of skin moisturizers - in vivo efficiency on normal and sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin?. in Vojnosanitetski pregled
Vojnomedicinska akademija - Institut za naučne informacije, Beograd., 73(11), 991-1002.
https://doi.org/10.2298/VSP150116122F

Filipović M, Gledović A, Lukić M, Tasić-Kostov M, Isailović T, Pantelić I, Vuleta G, Savić S. Alp Rose stem cells, olive oil squalene and a natural alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier: Are they appropriate ingredients of skin moisturizers - in vivo efficiency on normal and sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin?. in Vojnosanitetski pregled. 2016;73(11):991-1002.
doi:10.2298/VSP150116122F .

Filipović, Mila, Gledović, Ana, Lukić, Milica, Tasić-Kostov, Marija, Isailović, Tanja, Pantelić, Ivana, Vuleta, Gordana, Savić, Snežana, "Alp Rose stem cells, olive oil squalene and a natural alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier: Are they appropriate ingredients of skin moisturizers - in vivo efficiency on normal and sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin?" in Vojnosanitetski pregled, 73, no. 11 (2016):991-1002,
https://doi.org/10.2298/VSP150116122F . .

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Filipović, Mila
AU  - Lukić, Milica
AU  - Krstonosić, Veljko
AU  - Đorđević, Sanela
AU  - Pantelić, Ivana
AU  - Gledović, Ana
AU  - Vuleta, Gordana
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2016
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/2527
AB  - During the formulation of liposome-containing products different problems can occur and the selection of a suitable carrier remains the greatest challenge. To estimate feasibility of a novel alkyl polyglucoside surfactant (hydroxystearyl alcohol and hydroxystearyl glucoside) as an emulsifier for cosmetics with liposome-encapsulated plant stem cells, we performed a two-phase study. In the first, the pre-formulation phase, the emulsifier's critical micelle concentration (CMC) and liposome-encapsulated active-emulsifier interactions were determined. The second phase was carried out to develop and characterize a cosmetic emulsion suitable to serve as a carrier for liposomes. The investigated emulsifier, with the obtained CMC value of 0.0085 wt.%, could be classified as liposome-friendly and can be used to develop stable and aesthetically acceptable cosmetics or even prospective pharmaceutical liposome-containing emulsions.
PB  - Carl Hanser Verlag, Munich
T2  - Tenside Surfactants Detergents
T1  - Feasibility of a Natural Surfactant as a Stabilizer for Cosmetics with Liposome-Encapsulated Plant Stem Cells: Pre-Formulation and Formulation Through Stability Studies
VL  - 53
IS  - 3
SP  - 214
EP  - 226
DO  - 10.3139/113.110426
ER  - 

@article{
author = "Filipović, Mila and Lukić, Milica and Krstonosić, Veljko and Đorđević, Sanela and Pantelić, Ivana and Gledović, Ana and Vuleta, Gordana and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2016",
abstract = "During the formulation of liposome-containing products different problems can occur and the selection of a suitable carrier remains the greatest challenge. To estimate feasibility of a novel alkyl polyglucoside surfactant (hydroxystearyl alcohol and hydroxystearyl glucoside) as an emulsifier for cosmetics with liposome-encapsulated plant stem cells, we performed a two-phase study. In the first, the pre-formulation phase, the emulsifier's critical micelle concentration (CMC) and liposome-encapsulated active-emulsifier interactions were determined. The second phase was carried out to develop and characterize a cosmetic emulsion suitable to serve as a carrier for liposomes. The investigated emulsifier, with the obtained CMC value of 0.0085 wt.%, could be classified as liposome-friendly and can be used to develop stable and aesthetically acceptable cosmetics or even prospective pharmaceutical liposome-containing emulsions.",
publisher = "Carl Hanser Verlag, Munich",
journal = "Tenside Surfactants Detergents",
title = "Feasibility of a Natural Surfactant as a Stabilizer for Cosmetics with Liposome-Encapsulated Plant Stem Cells: Pre-Formulation and Formulation Through Stability Studies",
volume = "53",
number = "3",
pages = "214-226",
doi = "10.3139/113.110426"
}

Filipović, M., Lukić, M., Krstonosić, V., Đorđević, S., Pantelić, I., Gledović, A., Vuleta, G.,& Savić, S.. (2016). Feasibility of a Natural Surfactant as a Stabilizer for Cosmetics with Liposome-Encapsulated Plant Stem Cells: Pre-Formulation and Formulation Through Stability Studies. in Tenside Surfactants Detergents
Carl Hanser Verlag, Munich., 53(3), 214-226.
https://doi.org/10.3139/113.110426

Filipović M, Lukić M, Krstonosić V, Đorđević S, Pantelić I, Gledović A, Vuleta G, Savić S. Feasibility of a Natural Surfactant as a Stabilizer for Cosmetics with Liposome-Encapsulated Plant Stem Cells: Pre-Formulation and Formulation Through Stability Studies. in Tenside Surfactants Detergents. 2016;53(3):214-226.
doi:10.3139/113.110426 .

Filipović, Mila, Lukić, Milica, Krstonosić, Veljko, Đorđević, Sanela, Pantelić, Ivana, Gledović, Ana, Vuleta, Gordana, Savić, Snežana, "Feasibility of a Natural Surfactant as a Stabilizer for Cosmetics with Liposome-Encapsulated Plant Stem Cells: Pre-Formulation and Formulation Through Stability Studies" in Tenside Surfactants Detergents, 53, no. 3 (2016):214-226,
https://doi.org/10.3139/113.110426 . .