TY  - JOUR
AU  - Boškov, Ivana A.
AU  - Savić, Ivan M.
AU  - Grozdanić Stanisavljević, Nađa Ð.
AU  - Kundaković-Vasović, Tatjana
AU  - Radović-Selgrad, Jelena
AU  - Savić Gajić, Ivana M.
PY  - 2024
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/5573
AB  - Black locust flower extract contains various polyphenols and their glucosides contribute to the potential health benefits. After intake of these bioactive compounds and passage through the gastrointestinal tract, their degradation can occur and lead to a loss of biological activity. To overcome this problem, the bioactive compounds should be protected from environmental conditions. This study aimed to encapsulate the black flower extract in the microparticles based on biodegradable polysaccharides, alginate, and chitosan. In the extract, the total antioxidant content was found to be 3.18 ± 0.01 g gallic acid equivalent per 100 g of dry weight. Also, the presence of lipids (16), phenolics (27), organic acids (4), L-aspartic acid derivative, questinol, gibberellic acid, sterol, and saponins (2) was confirmed using the UHPLC–ESI–MS analysis. In vitro assays showed that the extract has weak anti-α-glucosidase activity and moderate antioxidant and cytotoxic activity against the HeLa cell line. The extrusion method with secondary air flow enabled the preparation of microparticles (about 270 μm) encapsulated with extract. An encapsulation efficiency of over 92% was achieved in the alginate and alginate–chitosan microparticles. The swelling study confirmed a lower permeability of alginate–chitosan microparticles compared with alginate microparticles. For both types of microparticles, the release profile of antioxidants in the simulated gastrointestinal fluids at 37 °C followed the Korsmeyer–Peppas model. A lower diffusion coefficient than 0.5 indicated the simple Fick diffusion of antioxidants. The alginate–chitosan microparticles enabled a more sustained release of antioxidants from extract compared to the alginate microparticles. The obtained results indicated an improvement in the antioxidant activity of bioactive compounds from the extract and their protection from degradation in the simulated gastric conditions via encapsulation in the polymer matrixes. Alginate–chitosan showed slightly slower cumulative antioxidant release from microparticles and better antioxidant activity of the extract compared to the alginate system. According to these results, alginate–chitosan microparticles are more suitable for further application in the encapsulation of black locust flower extract. Also, the proposed polymer matrix as a drug delivery system is safe for human use due to its biodegradability and non-toxicity.
PB  - MDPI
T2  - Polymers
T1  - Stabilization of Black Locust Flower Extract via Encapsulation Using Alginate and Alginate–Chitosan Microparticles
VL  - 16
IS  - 5
DO  - 10.3390/polym16050688
ER  - 

@article{
author = "Boškov, Ivana A. and Savić, Ivan M. and Grozdanić Stanisavljević, Nađa Ð. and Kundaković-Vasović, Tatjana and Radović-Selgrad, Jelena and Savić Gajić, Ivana M.",
year = "2024",
abstract = "Black locust flower extract contains various polyphenols and their glucosides contribute to the potential health benefits. After intake of these bioactive compounds and passage through the gastrointestinal tract, their degradation can occur and lead to a loss of biological activity. To overcome this problem, the bioactive compounds should be protected from environmental conditions. This study aimed to encapsulate the black flower extract in the microparticles based on biodegradable polysaccharides, alginate, and chitosan. In the extract, the total antioxidant content was found to be 3.18 ± 0.01 g gallic acid equivalent per 100 g of dry weight. Also, the presence of lipids (16), phenolics (27), organic acids (4), L-aspartic acid derivative, questinol, gibberellic acid, sterol, and saponins (2) was confirmed using the UHPLC–ESI–MS analysis. In vitro assays showed that the extract has weak anti-α-glucosidase activity and moderate antioxidant and cytotoxic activity against the HeLa cell line. The extrusion method with secondary air flow enabled the preparation of microparticles (about 270 μm) encapsulated with extract. An encapsulation efficiency of over 92% was achieved in the alginate and alginate–chitosan microparticles. The swelling study confirmed a lower permeability of alginate–chitosan microparticles compared with alginate microparticles. For both types of microparticles, the release profile of antioxidants in the simulated gastrointestinal fluids at 37 °C followed the Korsmeyer–Peppas model. A lower diffusion coefficient than 0.5 indicated the simple Fick diffusion of antioxidants. The alginate–chitosan microparticles enabled a more sustained release of antioxidants from extract compared to the alginate microparticles. The obtained results indicated an improvement in the antioxidant activity of bioactive compounds from the extract and their protection from degradation in the simulated gastric conditions via encapsulation in the polymer matrixes. Alginate–chitosan showed slightly slower cumulative antioxidant release from microparticles and better antioxidant activity of the extract compared to the alginate system. According to these results, alginate–chitosan microparticles are more suitable for further application in the encapsulation of black locust flower extract. Also, the proposed polymer matrix as a drug delivery system is safe for human use due to its biodegradability and non-toxicity.",
publisher = "MDPI",
journal = "Polymers",
title = "Stabilization of Black Locust Flower Extract via Encapsulation Using Alginate and Alginate–Chitosan Microparticles",
volume = "16",
number = "5",
doi = "10.3390/polym16050688"
}

Boškov, I. A., Savić, I. M., Grozdanić Stanisavljević, N. Ð., Kundaković-Vasović, T., Radović-Selgrad, J.,& Savić Gajić, I. M.. (2024). Stabilization of Black Locust Flower Extract via Encapsulation Using Alginate and Alginate–Chitosan Microparticles. in Polymers
MDPI., 16(5).
https://doi.org/10.3390/polym16050688

Boškov IA, Savić IM, Grozdanić Stanisavljević NÐ, Kundaković-Vasović T, Radović-Selgrad J, Savić Gajić IM. Stabilization of Black Locust Flower Extract via Encapsulation Using Alginate and Alginate–Chitosan Microparticles. in Polymers. 2024;16(5).
doi:10.3390/polym16050688 .

Boškov, Ivana A., Savić, Ivan M., Grozdanić Stanisavljević, Nađa Ð., Kundaković-Vasović, Tatjana, Radović-Selgrad, Jelena, Savić Gajić, Ivana M., "Stabilization of Black Locust Flower Extract via Encapsulation Using Alginate and Alginate–Chitosan Microparticles" in Polymers, 16, no. 5 (2024),
https://doi.org/10.3390/polym16050688 . .

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Vukašinović, Mila
AU  - Savić, Sanela
AU  - Cekić, Nebojša
AU  - Ilić, Tanja
AU  - Pantelić, Ivana
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2023
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/4517
AB  - Since natural-origin, sustainable ingredients are preferred by modern consumers, novel emulsifiers and emollients keep entering the market. This study hypothesizes that a combination of in silico, instrumental tools and simplified sensory studies could be used to efficiently characterize emulsions in a shorter timeframe. A total of 22 rather simple o/w emulsions were prepared by a time/energy-saving emulsification process. A natural mixed emulsifier (Lauryl Glucoside/Myristyl Glucoside/Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate) and two emollients (both with INCI name C15–19 Alkane) were used. The performed D-optimal experimental design within the response surface method (RSM) significantly narrowed down the number of samples about to enter the stage of texture, friction and sensory studies to the samples comprising 30% of a respective Emogreen emollient and 2% or 3% of the emulsifier. The sample comprising 2% emulsifier/30% Emogreen® L15 showed significantly higher firmness (42.12 mN) when compared to the one with 2% emulsifier/30% Emogreen® L19 (33.62 mN), which was somewhat unexpected considering the emollients’ inherent viscosity values (4.5 mPa·s for L15 and 9 mPa·s for L19). The sample with 2% emulsifier/30% Emogreen® L19 managed to maintain the lowest friction, while the one with 3% emulsifier/30% Emogreen® L19 released its full lubricating potential in the second part of the measurement (30–60 s). The obtained results revealed the strengths and weaknesses of each formulation, narrowing down their possible applications in the early development stage.
PB  - MDPI
T2  - Pharmaceutics
T1  - Efficient Development of Green Emulsifier/Emollient-Based Emulsion Vehicles: From RSM Optimal Experimental Design to Abridged In Vivo Assessment
VL  - 15
IS  - 2
DO  - 10.3390/pharmaceutics15020486
ER  - 

@article{
author = "Vukašinović, Mila and Savić, Sanela and Cekić, Nebojša and Ilić, Tanja and Pantelić, Ivana and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2023",
abstract = "Since natural-origin, sustainable ingredients are preferred by modern consumers, novel emulsifiers and emollients keep entering the market. This study hypothesizes that a combination of in silico, instrumental tools and simplified sensory studies could be used to efficiently characterize emulsions in a shorter timeframe. A total of 22 rather simple o/w emulsions were prepared by a time/energy-saving emulsification process. A natural mixed emulsifier (Lauryl Glucoside/Myristyl Glucoside/Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate) and two emollients (both with INCI name C15–19 Alkane) were used. The performed D-optimal experimental design within the response surface method (RSM) significantly narrowed down the number of samples about to enter the stage of texture, friction and sensory studies to the samples comprising 30% of a respective Emogreen emollient and 2% or 3% of the emulsifier. The sample comprising 2% emulsifier/30% Emogreen® L15 showed significantly higher firmness (42.12 mN) when compared to the one with 2% emulsifier/30% Emogreen® L19 (33.62 mN), which was somewhat unexpected considering the emollients’ inherent viscosity values (4.5 mPa·s for L15 and 9 mPa·s for L19). The sample with 2% emulsifier/30% Emogreen® L19 managed to maintain the lowest friction, while the one with 3% emulsifier/30% Emogreen® L19 released its full lubricating potential in the second part of the measurement (30–60 s). The obtained results revealed the strengths and weaknesses of each formulation, narrowing down their possible applications in the early development stage.",
publisher = "MDPI",
journal = "Pharmaceutics",
title = "Efficient Development of Green Emulsifier/Emollient-Based Emulsion Vehicles: From RSM Optimal Experimental Design to Abridged In Vivo Assessment",
volume = "15",
number = "2",
doi = "10.3390/pharmaceutics15020486"
}

Vukašinović, M., Savić, S., Cekić, N., Ilić, T., Pantelić, I.,& Savić, S.. (2023). Efficient Development of Green Emulsifier/Emollient-Based Emulsion Vehicles: From RSM Optimal Experimental Design to Abridged In Vivo Assessment. in Pharmaceutics
MDPI., 15(2).
https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics15020486

Vukašinović M, Savić S, Cekić N, Ilić T, Pantelić I, Savić S. Efficient Development of Green Emulsifier/Emollient-Based Emulsion Vehicles: From RSM Optimal Experimental Design to Abridged In Vivo Assessment. in Pharmaceutics. 2023;15(2).
doi:10.3390/pharmaceutics15020486 .

Vukašinović, Mila, Savić, Sanela, Cekić, Nebojša, Ilić, Tanja, Pantelić, Ivana, Savić, Snežana, "Efficient Development of Green Emulsifier/Emollient-Based Emulsion Vehicles: From RSM Optimal Experimental Design to Abridged In Vivo Assessment" in Pharmaceutics, 15, no. 2 (2023),
https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics15020486 . .

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Cekić, Nebojša
AU  - Savić, Sanela
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2023
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/5357
AB  - The assessment of stability in emulsion-based topical preparations can be approached through
real-time monitoring and/or accelerated methods, drawing predictions from pertinent stability-related
physicochemical parameters. Ensuring the robustness and durability of topical products during
storage, transport, and application necessitates thorough stability testing. However, due to the diversity
of emulsion types and their intended use, there is no universal standard test, placing the liability on
formulators/manufacturer to tailor appropriate assessments. Notably, topical emulsions, particularly
cosmetic variants, often exhibit impressive stability with extended shelf lives. Nonetheless, evaluating
their stability and decision-making remain challenging and time-consuming in industrial contexts.
This underscores the demand for alternative testing protocols that expedite stability assessments and
predict emulsion-based product stability accurately. This article comprehensively surveys literature,
enriched with practical insights, exploring core mechanisms behind emulsion stability and prevention
of instability. The discussion encompasses diverse approaches to stability assessment, revealing
methodologies and parameters under examination during testing. Particular focus is placed on the
dynamic-mechanical thermoanalysis (DMTA) method explored as a rapid, rheologically-based
alternative to the conventional freeze-thaw test, emphasizing its usefulness for expediting the stability
evaluation of emulsion-based topical preparations.
AB  - Procena stabilnosti emulzionih preparata za topikalnu primenu može se sprovesti praćenjem promena u realnom vremenu i/ili primenom ubrzanih metoda, te predviđanjem stabilnosti i roka trajanja proizvoda na osnovu merenja relevantnih fizičkohemijskih parametara tokom ispitivanja. Kako bi se obezbedila robusnost i dugoročnost emulzionih proizvoda za kožu tokom čuvanja, transporta i primene, neophodno je sprovesti pažljivo isplanirano, opsežno ispitivanje stabilnosti. Međutim, imajući u vidu različite tipove emulzija i njihovu namenu, ne postoji univerzalni standardni protokol za ispitivanje stabilnosti, što formulatore/proizvođača čini odgovornim kada je u pitanju izbor odgovarajućeg testa i metodologije. Evidentno je da emulzije za topikalnu primenu, a posebno kozmetičke emulzije, često pokazuju visoku stabilnost sa dugim rokovima upotrebe. S druge strane, procena stabilnosti ovakvih emulzija i donošenje odgovarajućih odluka i dalje ostaje izazov u industrijskom okruženju i zahteva dosta vremena, što nameće potrebu za alternativnim protokolima koji omogućavaju ubrzano ispitivanje, ali i uspešno predviđanje stabilnosti emulzionih proizvoda. Prikazani rad daje sveobuhvatni pregled literature prožet praktičnim pogledima na ključne fenomene odgovorne za stabilnost emulzija, zatim daje uvid u različite pristupe za procenu njihove stabilnosti, uključujući metodologije koje se koriste i parametre koji se prate tokom ispitivanja. Rad u poseban fokus stavlja dinamičko-mehanički termoanalitički (DMTA) metod kao brzu reološku alternativu konvencionalnom testu smrzavanje-odmrzavanje, posebno ističući primenljivost metoda za ubrzano ispitivanje stabilnosti emulzionih preparata za topikalnu primenu.
PB  - Savez farmaceutskih udruženja Srbije
T2  - Arhiv za farmaciju
T1  - Stability evaluation of emulsion-based topical preparations: a valuable potential of dynamic- mechanical thermoanalysis (DMTA) test as a rapid rheological alternative to conventional freeze- thaw test
T1  - Procena stabilnosti emulzionih preparata za topikalnu primenu - vrednost dinamičkomehaničkog termoanalitičkog (DMTA) testa kao brze reološke alternative konvencionalnom testu smrzavanje-odmrzavanje
VL  - 73
IS  - 5
SP  - 358
EP  - 389
DO  - 10.5937/arhfarm73-46319
ER  - 

@article{
author = "Cekić, Nebojša and Savić, Sanela and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2023",
abstract = "The assessment of stability in emulsion-based topical preparations can be approached through
real-time monitoring and/or accelerated methods, drawing predictions from pertinent stability-related
physicochemical parameters. Ensuring the robustness and durability of topical products during
storage, transport, and application necessitates thorough stability testing. However, due to the diversity
of emulsion types and their intended use, there is no universal standard test, placing the liability on
formulators/manufacturer to tailor appropriate assessments. Notably, topical emulsions, particularly
cosmetic variants, often exhibit impressive stability with extended shelf lives. Nonetheless, evaluating
their stability and decision-making remain challenging and time-consuming in industrial contexts.
This underscores the demand for alternative testing protocols that expedite stability assessments and
predict emulsion-based product stability accurately. This article comprehensively surveys literature,
enriched with practical insights, exploring core mechanisms behind emulsion stability and prevention
of instability. The discussion encompasses diverse approaches to stability assessment, revealing
methodologies and parameters under examination during testing. Particular focus is placed on the
dynamic-mechanical thermoanalysis (DMTA) method explored as a rapid, rheologically-based
alternative to the conventional freeze-thaw test, emphasizing its usefulness for expediting the stability
evaluation of emulsion-based topical preparations., Procena stabilnosti emulzionih preparata za topikalnu primenu može se sprovesti praćenjem promena u realnom vremenu i/ili primenom ubrzanih metoda, te predviđanjem stabilnosti i roka trajanja proizvoda na osnovu merenja relevantnih fizičkohemijskih parametara tokom ispitivanja. Kako bi se obezbedila robusnost i dugoročnost emulzionih proizvoda za kožu tokom čuvanja, transporta i primene, neophodno je sprovesti pažljivo isplanirano, opsežno ispitivanje stabilnosti. Međutim, imajući u vidu različite tipove emulzija i njihovu namenu, ne postoji univerzalni standardni protokol za ispitivanje stabilnosti, što formulatore/proizvođača čini odgovornim kada je u pitanju izbor odgovarajućeg testa i metodologije. Evidentno je da emulzije za topikalnu primenu, a posebno kozmetičke emulzije, često pokazuju visoku stabilnost sa dugim rokovima upotrebe. S druge strane, procena stabilnosti ovakvih emulzija i donošenje odgovarajućih odluka i dalje ostaje izazov u industrijskom okruženju i zahteva dosta vremena, što nameće potrebu za alternativnim protokolima koji omogućavaju ubrzano ispitivanje, ali i uspešno predviđanje stabilnosti emulzionih proizvoda. Prikazani rad daje sveobuhvatni pregled literature prožet praktičnim pogledima na ključne fenomene odgovorne za stabilnost emulzija, zatim daje uvid u različite pristupe za procenu njihove stabilnosti, uključujući metodologije koje se koriste i parametre koji se prate tokom ispitivanja. Rad u poseban fokus stavlja dinamičko-mehanički termoanalitički (DMTA) metod kao brzu reološku alternativu konvencionalnom testu smrzavanje-odmrzavanje, posebno ističući primenljivost metoda za ubrzano ispitivanje stabilnosti emulzionih preparata za topikalnu primenu.",
publisher = "Savez farmaceutskih udruženja Srbije",
journal = "Arhiv za farmaciju",
title = "Stability evaluation of emulsion-based topical preparations: a valuable potential of dynamic- mechanical thermoanalysis (DMTA) test as a rapid rheological alternative to conventional freeze- thaw test, Procena stabilnosti emulzionih preparata za topikalnu primenu - vrednost dinamičkomehaničkog termoanalitičkog (DMTA) testa kao brze reološke alternative konvencionalnom testu smrzavanje-odmrzavanje",
volume = "73",
number = "5",
pages = "358-389",
doi = "10.5937/arhfarm73-46319"
}

Cekić, N., Savić, S.,& Savić, S.. (2023). Stability evaluation of emulsion-based topical preparations: a valuable potential of dynamic- mechanical thermoanalysis (DMTA) test as a rapid rheological alternative to conventional freeze- thaw test. in Arhiv za farmaciju
Savez farmaceutskih udruženja Srbije., 73(5), 358-389.
https://doi.org/10.5937/arhfarm73-46319

Cekić N, Savić S, Savić S. Stability evaluation of emulsion-based topical preparations: a valuable potential of dynamic- mechanical thermoanalysis (DMTA) test as a rapid rheological alternative to conventional freeze- thaw test. in Arhiv za farmaciju. 2023;73(5):358-389.
doi:10.5937/arhfarm73-46319 .

Cekić, Nebojša, Savić, Sanela, Savić, Snežana, "Stability evaluation of emulsion-based topical preparations: a valuable potential of dynamic- mechanical thermoanalysis (DMTA) test as a rapid rheological alternative to conventional freeze- thaw test" in Arhiv za farmaciju, 73, no. 5 (2023):358-389,
https://doi.org/10.5937/arhfarm73-46319 . .

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Vukašinović, Mila
AU  - Pantelić, Ivana
AU  - Savić, Sanela
AU  - Cekić, Nebojša
AU  - Vukašinović Sekulić, Maja
AU  - Antić-Stanković, Jelena
AU  - Božić, Dragana
AU  - Tošić, Anđela
AU  - Tamburić, Slobodanka
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2023
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/5311
AB  - Bioactive peptides are promising cosmetic active ingredients that can improve skin health
and appearance. They exhibit a broad spectrum of activity, including anti-aging, antioxidant, an-
timicrobial, and anti-inflammatory effects. The aim of this study was to develop a safe, stable, and
efficacious environmentally friendly (“green”) emulsion using a milk protein hydrolysate as a model
active ingredient. Potential emulsions were formulated with biodegradable emollients, stabilized
with naturally derived mixed emulsifier, and prepared by cold process. They were evaluated for
rheological behavior (continuous rotation and oscillation tests), physical stability (dynamic me-
chanical thermal analysis—DMTA test), and texture profiles, as well as cytotoxic, antioxidant, and
antimicrobial effects. Rheological characterization revealed shear-thinning flow behavior with yield
point from continuous rotation tests and predominantly elastic character from oscillation (amplitude
and frequency sweep) tests, with small structural change detected in the DMTA test. These results
implied satisfactory rheological properties and good stability. Texture analysis revealed acceptable
spreadability and substantivity of the emulsions. The protein hydrolysate showed antioxidant activity.
The developed emulsions showed low antibacterial activity against selected microorganisms, but
this was due to the action of preservatives, not peptides. All potential emulsions showed a desirable
safety profile. The results obtained provide the basis for the next stage of formulation development,
i.e., in vivo efficacy tests.
PB  - MDPI
T2  - Cosmetics
T1  - Development of a “Green” Emulsion with a Milk Protein Hydrolysate: An Evaluation of Rheology, Texture, In Vitro Bioactivity, and Safety
VL  - 10
IS  - 6
DO  - 10.3390/cosmetics10060162
ER  - 

@article{
author = "Vukašinović, Mila and Pantelić, Ivana and Savić, Sanela and Cekić, Nebojša and Vukašinović Sekulić, Maja and Antić-Stanković, Jelena and Božić, Dragana and Tošić, Anđela and Tamburić, Slobodanka and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2023",
abstract = "Bioactive peptides are promising cosmetic active ingredients that can improve skin health
and appearance. They exhibit a broad spectrum of activity, including anti-aging, antioxidant, an-
timicrobial, and anti-inflammatory effects. The aim of this study was to develop a safe, stable, and
efficacious environmentally friendly (“green”) emulsion using a milk protein hydrolysate as a model
active ingredient. Potential emulsions were formulated with biodegradable emollients, stabilized
with naturally derived mixed emulsifier, and prepared by cold process. They were evaluated for
rheological behavior (continuous rotation and oscillation tests), physical stability (dynamic me-
chanical thermal analysis—DMTA test), and texture profiles, as well as cytotoxic, antioxidant, and
antimicrobial effects. Rheological characterization revealed shear-thinning flow behavior with yield
point from continuous rotation tests and predominantly elastic character from oscillation (amplitude
and frequency sweep) tests, with small structural change detected in the DMTA test. These results
implied satisfactory rheological properties and good stability. Texture analysis revealed acceptable
spreadability and substantivity of the emulsions. The protein hydrolysate showed antioxidant activity.
The developed emulsions showed low antibacterial activity against selected microorganisms, but
this was due to the action of preservatives, not peptides. All potential emulsions showed a desirable
safety profile. The results obtained provide the basis for the next stage of formulation development,
i.e., in vivo efficacy tests.",
publisher = "MDPI",
journal = "Cosmetics",
title = "Development of a “Green” Emulsion with a Milk Protein Hydrolysate: An Evaluation of Rheology, Texture, In Vitro Bioactivity, and Safety",
volume = "10",
number = "6",
doi = "10.3390/cosmetics10060162"
}

Vukašinović, M., Pantelić, I., Savić, S., Cekić, N., Vukašinović Sekulić, M., Antić-Stanković, J., Božić, D., Tošić, A., Tamburić, S.,& Savić, S.. (2023). Development of a “Green” Emulsion with a Milk Protein Hydrolysate: An Evaluation of Rheology, Texture, In Vitro Bioactivity, and Safety. in Cosmetics
MDPI., 10(6).
https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060162

Vukašinović M, Pantelić I, Savić S, Cekić N, Vukašinović Sekulić M, Antić-Stanković J, Božić D, Tošić A, Tamburić S, Savić S. Development of a “Green” Emulsion with a Milk Protein Hydrolysate: An Evaluation of Rheology, Texture, In Vitro Bioactivity, and Safety. in Cosmetics. 2023;10(6).
doi:10.3390/cosmetics10060162 .

Vukašinović, Mila, Pantelić, Ivana, Savić, Sanela, Cekić, Nebojša, Vukašinović Sekulić, Maja, Antić-Stanković, Jelena, Božić, Dragana, Tošić, Anđela, Tamburić, Slobodanka, Savić, Snežana, "Development of a “Green” Emulsion with a Milk Protein Hydrolysate: An Evaluation of Rheology, Texture, In Vitro Bioactivity, and Safety" in Cosmetics, 10, no. 6 (2023),
https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060162 . .

TY  - JOUR
AU  - Savić, Sanela
AU  - Cekić, Nebojša
AU  - Savić, Saša
AU  - Ilić, Tanja
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2021
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/3936
AB  - Objective: The growing consumers’ preferences and concerns regarding healthy ageing, youthful skin appearance, environmental protection and sustainability have triggered an ever-increasing trend towards natural, eco-friendly and ethically sourced anti-ageing products. Accordingly, this paper describes design and evaluation of novel, safe, effective and high-quality emulsion serums, completely based on ingredients of natural origin, intended for improving facial fine lines and wrinkles. Methods: Model formulations, stabilized by an innovative glycolipid mixed emulsifier (lauryl glucoside/myristyl glucoside/polyglyceryl-6 laurate) and containing Acmella oleracea extract as a model anti-ageing active, were prepared by cold process and fully assessed regarding their rheological behaviour (continuous rotational and oscillatory tests) and physical stability (dynamic-mechanical thermoanalysis – DMTA test). To study and optimize the simultaneous influence of varied formulation factors (emollients and emulsifier concentrations) on critical rheological attributes of the developed serums, a central composite design within ‘design of experiments’ approach was employed. The general skin performance – preliminary safety and anti-wrinkle efficacy of selected model serum, was evaluated in human volunteers, by employing several objective, non-invasive bioengineering techniques. Results: Rheological characterization revealed favourable shear-thinning flow behaviour with yield point, and dominating elastic character (storage modulus G’ > loss modulus G") in both amplitude and frequency sweeps, which together with relatively small structural change obtained in DMTA test indicated overall satisfying rheological and stability properties of formulated serums. From the established design space, and taking into account formulation cost and carbon footprint, promising model serum (desired/optimal apparent viscosity, yield point and loss factor, rather small and constant structural change), containing 15% of emollients and 1% of emulsifier, was chosen for in vivo evaluations. Screening of skin irritation effects revealed the absence of potential irritancy of investigated serum, suggesting overall satisfying skin tolerability/preliminary safety. Silicone skin replica image analysis demonstrated noticeable reduction/improvement in all measured skin wrinkle parameters after only 2 weeks of test serum application in periorbital and perioral areas, indicating its rapid and beneficial effects on the facial expression lines and wrinkles. Conclusion: Altogether, the results corroborate the promising potential of the developed Acmella oleracea extract-loaded emulsion serum as safe, effective and non-invasive natural anti-wrinkle product.
PB  - John Wiley and Sons Inc
T2  - International Journal of Cosmetic Science
T1  - ‘All-natural’ anti-wrinkle emulsion serum with Acmella oleracea extract: A design of experiments (DoE) formulation approach, rheology and in vivo skin performance/efficacy evaluation
DO  - 10.1111/ics.12726
ER  - 

@article{
author = "Savić, Sanela and Cekić, Nebojša and Savić, Saša and Ilić, Tanja and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2021",
abstract = "Objective: The growing consumers’ preferences and concerns regarding healthy ageing, youthful skin appearance, environmental protection and sustainability have triggered an ever-increasing trend towards natural, eco-friendly and ethically sourced anti-ageing products. Accordingly, this paper describes design and evaluation of novel, safe, effective and high-quality emulsion serums, completely based on ingredients of natural origin, intended for improving facial fine lines and wrinkles. Methods: Model formulations, stabilized by an innovative glycolipid mixed emulsifier (lauryl glucoside/myristyl glucoside/polyglyceryl-6 laurate) and containing Acmella oleracea extract as a model anti-ageing active, were prepared by cold process and fully assessed regarding their rheological behaviour (continuous rotational and oscillatory tests) and physical stability (dynamic-mechanical thermoanalysis – DMTA test). To study and optimize the simultaneous influence of varied formulation factors (emollients and emulsifier concentrations) on critical rheological attributes of the developed serums, a central composite design within ‘design of experiments’ approach was employed. The general skin performance – preliminary safety and anti-wrinkle efficacy of selected model serum, was evaluated in human volunteers, by employing several objective, non-invasive bioengineering techniques. Results: Rheological characterization revealed favourable shear-thinning flow behaviour with yield point, and dominating elastic character (storage modulus G’ > loss modulus G") in both amplitude and frequency sweeps, which together with relatively small structural change obtained in DMTA test indicated overall satisfying rheological and stability properties of formulated serums. From the established design space, and taking into account formulation cost and carbon footprint, promising model serum (desired/optimal apparent viscosity, yield point and loss factor, rather small and constant structural change), containing 15% of emollients and 1% of emulsifier, was chosen for in vivo evaluations. Screening of skin irritation effects revealed the absence of potential irritancy of investigated serum, suggesting overall satisfying skin tolerability/preliminary safety. Silicone skin replica image analysis demonstrated noticeable reduction/improvement in all measured skin wrinkle parameters after only 2 weeks of test serum application in periorbital and perioral areas, indicating its rapid and beneficial effects on the facial expression lines and wrinkles. Conclusion: Altogether, the results corroborate the promising potential of the developed Acmella oleracea extract-loaded emulsion serum as safe, effective and non-invasive natural anti-wrinkle product.",
publisher = "John Wiley and Sons Inc",
journal = "International Journal of Cosmetic Science",
title = "‘All-natural’ anti-wrinkle emulsion serum with Acmella oleracea extract: A design of experiments (DoE) formulation approach, rheology and in vivo skin performance/efficacy evaluation",
doi = "10.1111/ics.12726"
}

Savić, S., Cekić, N., Savić, S., Ilić, T.,& Savić, S.. (2021). ‘All-natural’ anti-wrinkle emulsion serum with Acmella oleracea extract: A design of experiments (DoE) formulation approach, rheology and in vivo skin performance/efficacy evaluation. in International Journal of Cosmetic Science
John Wiley and Sons Inc..
https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12726

Savić S, Cekić N, Savić S, Ilić T, Savić S. ‘All-natural’ anti-wrinkle emulsion serum with Acmella oleracea extract: A design of experiments (DoE) formulation approach, rheology and in vivo skin performance/efficacy evaluation. in International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2021;.
doi:10.1111/ics.12726 .

Savić, Sanela, Cekić, Nebojša, Savić, Saša, Ilić, Tanja, Savić, Snežana, "‘All-natural’ anti-wrinkle emulsion serum with Acmella oleracea extract: A design of experiments (DoE) formulation approach, rheology and in vivo skin performance/efficacy evaluation" in International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2021),
https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12726 . .