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Hyaluronic acid in dermocosmetic products

Hijaluronska kiselina u dermokozmetičkim proizvodima

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2009
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Authors
Vuleta, Gordana
Perović, Tijana
Savić, Snežana
Article (Published version)
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Abstract
Hyaluronic acid is natural component of the skin. Due to its numerous functions and ability of water binding, hyaluronic acid influences skin hydration, keeps the moisture and elasticity of the skin and therefore it is useful for a number of cosmetic skin care products. Hyaluronic acid is used for years in skin care products, but because of its high molecular mass it cannot pass through stratum corneum (SC), accomplishing only the superficial hydration and skin care effect. In order to have better hyaluronic acid penetration to the epidermis, cosmetic industry offers hyaluronic acid fragments which are nowadays incorporated in numerous cosmetic products. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acids have stronger effect in decreasing skin roughness and wrinkles due to better penetration in SC and similar moisturizing effect, comparing to high molecular weight hyaluronic acid. On the other hand, dermal fillers with hyaluronic acid are widely used due to their positive influence in reducing wrin...kles with immediate effect after application of the preparation and less potential for allergic reaction than collagen fillers. This work will discuss the hyaluronic acid as component of the skin, the skin effects of hyaluronic acid containing cosmetic products and effects of hyaluronic acid fillers as well as the new trends in cosmetology related to so called hyaluronic acid fragments.

Hijaluronska kiselina je prirodni sastojak kože. Zahvaljujući njenim brojnim funkcijama i izraženoj sposobnosti vezivanja vode, hijaluronska kiselina vrši hidrataciju kože, utiče na vlažnost i elastičnost kože, te se koristi za izradu brojnih kozmetičkih proizvoda. U preparatima za negu kože, hijaluronska kiselina se godinama koristi. Ali, zbog velike molekulske mase ne prolazi u stratum corneum (SC), već ostvaruje (samo) površinski efekat hidratacije i nege kože. U cilju boljeg penetriranja hijaluronske kiseline u epidermis, kozmetička industrija je ponudila fragmente hijaluronske kiseline koji su danas ugrađeni u mnoge kozmetičke proizvode. Oni imaju izraženiji efekat na smanjenje hrapavosti kože i ublažavanje bora zahvaljujući efikasnijoj penetraciji u SC, u odnosu na hijaluronsku kiselinu velike molekulske mase, sa veoma sličnim efektima na vlaženje kože. Sa druge strane, dermalni punioci/fileri sa hijaluronskom kiselinom se koriste zbog efekta ublažavnja bora koji se javlja vrlo b...rzo nakon primene ovih preparata, ali i zbog manje alergijskih reakcija u odnosu na punioce sa kolagenom. U ovom radu biće izloženi uloga hijaluronske kiseline kao sastojka kože, njen efekat na koži koji ostvaruje posle primene kozmetičkih proizvoda, efekti koje postiže kada se daje kao dermatološki punilac, kao i novi trendovi u kozmetologiji u cilju dobijanja efikasnijih molekula, tzv. fragmenata hijaluronske kiseline.

Keywords:
hyaluronic acid / hyaluronic acid fragments / dermal fillers / cosmetic products / hijaluronska kiselina / fragmenti hijaluronske kiseline / dermalni punioci / kozmetički proizvodi
Source:
Arhiv za farmaciju, 2009, 59, 6, 551-562
Publisher:
  • Savez farmaceutskih udruženja Srbije, Beograd

ISSN: 0004-1963

Scopus: 2-s2.0-77953399974
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URI
http://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/1306
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