The rationale for use of vitamins and minerals in cosmetic products

Abstract

The paper gives a short description of skin condition attacked by processes of chronological and photoaging, as basic ²indications² for use of vitamins and minerals in different skin care products. Newer literature statements point to the fact that vitamin A derivatives - retinoids (retinol, retinol aldehyde and retinol esters) are standard in the prevention and treatment of photoaging signs, and as secondary prevention and active substances in numerous cosmetic products the antioxidative vitamins/provitamins (vitamin E, vitamin C, beta carotene…) could be met. A particular problem in formulation of cosmetic products presents the proper stabilization of unstable forms of vitamins A, E and C, which could be solved by choosing the adequate auxiliary substances, using colloidal carriers (liposomes, niosomes, and nanoparticles) or corresponding packaging material, as well as by specific manufacturing techniques. Paper also gives the review of usual vitamin derivatives followed by recommended concentrations in different cosmetic products, as well as data based on few clinical studies on their biological availability. Also, an increasing trend of minerals use in cosmetic anti-aging products is commented.

U radu se daje kratak opis stanja kože zahvaćene procesima hronološkog i fotostarenja kao osnovnih 'indikacija' za primenu vitamina i minerala u različitim proizvodima za negu kože. Noviji literaturni navodi upućuju na činjenicu da su derivati vitamina A - retinoidi (retinol, retinil aldehid i retinil estri) standard u prevenciji i tretmanu znakova fotostarenja kože, a da se kao sekundarna prevencija i aktivne supstance u brojnim 'antiaging' kozmetičkim proizvodima često sreću vitamini/provitamini (vitamin E, vitamin C, beta karoten) sa antioksidativnim delovanjem. Poseban problem u formulaciji kozmetičkih proizvoda predstavlja stabilizacija nestabilnih oblika vitamina A, E i C, što se rešava pravilnim izborom pomoćnih supstanci, primenom koloidnih nosača (liposomi, niosomi, nanočestice) ili upotrebom odgovarajuće ambalaže, te posebnim tehnikama izrade proizvoda. U radu je dat pregled uobičajenih derivata vitamina i njihovih koncentracija u kozmetičkim proizvodima različite namene, kao i podaci o rezultatima malobrojnih kliničkih studija o biološkoj raspoloživosti ovih kozmetički aktivnih supstanci. Takođe, komentarisan je rastući trend primene minerala u kozmetičkim antiaging proizvodima.