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Does lactobionic acid affect the colloidal structure and skin moisturizing potential of the alkyl polyglucoside-based emulsion systems?

Authorized Users Only
2011
Authors
Tasić-Kostov, Marija
Reichl, Stephan
Lukić, Milica
Jaksić, I. N.
Savić, Snežana
Article (Published version)
Metadata
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Abstract
Moisturizing creams are the most prescribed products in dermatology, essential in maintaining healthy skin as well as in the topical treatment of some diseases. The irritation potential of commonly used emulsifiers and moisturizing ingredients, but also their mutual interactions, could affect the functionality and safety of those dermopharmaceutics. The aim of this study was to promote moisturizing alkyl polyglucoside (APG)-based emulsion as vehicle for lactobionic acid (LA), advantageous representative of the alphahydroxyacids (AHAs)-multifunctional moisturizers, assessing the safety for use (in vitro acute skin irritation test using cytotoxicity assay compared with in vivo data obtained using skin bioengineering methods) and in vivo moisturizing capacity (bioengineering of the skin). In order to investigate possible interactions between APG mild natural emulsifier-based emulsion and LA, a deeper insight into the colloidal structure of the placebo and the emulsion with LA was given us...ing polarization and transmission electron microscopy, rheology, thermal and texture analysis. This study showed that APG-based emulsions could be promoted as safe cosmetic/dermopharmaceutical vehicles and carriers for extremely acidic and hygroscopic AHA class of actives (specifically LA); prospective safety for human use of both APG and LA with the correlation between in vivo and in vitro findings was shown. However, it was revealed that LA strongly influenced the colloidal structure of the emulsion based on APGs and promoted the formation of lamellar structures which reflects onto the mode of water distribution within the cream. The advantageous skin hydrating potential of LA-containing emulsion vs. placebo was unlikely to be achieved, pointing that emulsions stabilized by lamellar liquid crystalline structures probably are not satisfying carriers for highly hygroscopic actives in order to reach the full moisturizing potential. Safe and effective use on dry skin is presumed.

Source:
Pharmazie, 2011, 66, 11, 862-870
Publisher:
  • Govi-Verlag Pharmazeutischer Verlag Gmbh, Eschborn
Funding / projects:
  • Functional physiologically active plant materials with additional values for application in pharmaceutical and food industry (RS-45017)

DOI: 10.1691/ph.2011.1066

ISSN: 0031-7144

PubMed: 22204132

WoS: 000297564800009

Scopus: 2-s2.0-84055191122
[ Google Scholar ]
14
13
URI
https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/1513
Collections
  • Radovi istraživača / Researchers’ publications
Institution/Community
Pharmacy
TY  - JOUR
AU  - Tasić-Kostov, Marija
AU  - Reichl, Stephan
AU  - Lukić, Milica
AU  - Jaksić, I. N.
AU  - Savić, Snežana
PY  - 2011
UR  - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/1513
AB  - Moisturizing creams are the most prescribed products in dermatology, essential in maintaining healthy skin as well as in the topical treatment of some diseases. The irritation potential of commonly used emulsifiers and moisturizing ingredients, but also their mutual interactions, could affect the functionality and safety of those dermopharmaceutics. The aim of this study was to promote moisturizing alkyl polyglucoside (APG)-based emulsion as vehicle for lactobionic acid (LA), advantageous representative of the alphahydroxyacids (AHAs)-multifunctional moisturizers, assessing the safety for use (in vitro acute skin irritation test using cytotoxicity assay compared with in vivo data obtained using skin bioengineering methods) and in vivo moisturizing capacity (bioengineering of the skin). In order to investigate possible interactions between APG mild natural emulsifier-based emulsion and LA, a deeper insight into the colloidal structure of the placebo and the emulsion with LA was given using polarization and transmission electron microscopy, rheology, thermal and texture analysis. This study showed that APG-based emulsions could be promoted as safe cosmetic/dermopharmaceutical vehicles and carriers for extremely acidic and hygroscopic AHA class of actives (specifically LA); prospective safety for human use of both APG and LA with the correlation between in vivo and in vitro findings was shown. However, it was revealed that LA strongly influenced the colloidal structure of the emulsion based on APGs and promoted the formation of lamellar structures which reflects onto the mode of water distribution within the cream. The advantageous skin hydrating potential of LA-containing emulsion vs. placebo was unlikely to be achieved, pointing that emulsions stabilized by lamellar liquid crystalline structures probably are not satisfying carriers for highly hygroscopic actives in order to reach the full moisturizing potential. Safe and effective use on dry skin is presumed.
PB  - Govi-Verlag  Pharmazeutischer Verlag Gmbh, Eschborn
T2  - Pharmazie
T1  - Does lactobionic acid affect the colloidal structure and skin moisturizing potential of the alkyl polyglucoside-based emulsion systems?
VL  - 66
IS  - 11
SP  - 862
EP  - 870
DO  - 10.1691/ph.2011.1066
ER  - 
@article{
author = "Tasić-Kostov, Marija and Reichl, Stephan and Lukić, Milica and Jaksić, I. N. and Savić, Snežana",
year = "2011",
abstract = "Moisturizing creams are the most prescribed products in dermatology, essential in maintaining healthy skin as well as in the topical treatment of some diseases. The irritation potential of commonly used emulsifiers and moisturizing ingredients, but also their mutual interactions, could affect the functionality and safety of those dermopharmaceutics. The aim of this study was to promote moisturizing alkyl polyglucoside (APG)-based emulsion as vehicle for lactobionic acid (LA), advantageous representative of the alphahydroxyacids (AHAs)-multifunctional moisturizers, assessing the safety for use (in vitro acute skin irritation test using cytotoxicity assay compared with in vivo data obtained using skin bioengineering methods) and in vivo moisturizing capacity (bioengineering of the skin). In order to investigate possible interactions between APG mild natural emulsifier-based emulsion and LA, a deeper insight into the colloidal structure of the placebo and the emulsion with LA was given using polarization and transmission electron microscopy, rheology, thermal and texture analysis. This study showed that APG-based emulsions could be promoted as safe cosmetic/dermopharmaceutical vehicles and carriers for extremely acidic and hygroscopic AHA class of actives (specifically LA); prospective safety for human use of both APG and LA with the correlation between in vivo and in vitro findings was shown. However, it was revealed that LA strongly influenced the colloidal structure of the emulsion based on APGs and promoted the formation of lamellar structures which reflects onto the mode of water distribution within the cream. The advantageous skin hydrating potential of LA-containing emulsion vs. placebo was unlikely to be achieved, pointing that emulsions stabilized by lamellar liquid crystalline structures probably are not satisfying carriers for highly hygroscopic actives in order to reach the full moisturizing potential. Safe and effective use on dry skin is presumed.",
publisher = "Govi-Verlag  Pharmazeutischer Verlag Gmbh, Eschborn",
journal = "Pharmazie",
title = "Does lactobionic acid affect the colloidal structure and skin moisturizing potential of the alkyl polyglucoside-based emulsion systems?",
volume = "66",
number = "11",
pages = "862-870",
doi = "10.1691/ph.2011.1066"
}
Tasić-Kostov, M., Reichl, S., Lukić, M., Jaksić, I. N.,& Savić, S.. (2011). Does lactobionic acid affect the colloidal structure and skin moisturizing potential of the alkyl polyglucoside-based emulsion systems?. in Pharmazie
Govi-Verlag  Pharmazeutischer Verlag Gmbh, Eschborn., 66(11), 862-870.
https://doi.org/10.1691/ph.2011.1066
Tasić-Kostov M, Reichl S, Lukić M, Jaksić IN, Savić S. Does lactobionic acid affect the colloidal structure and skin moisturizing potential of the alkyl polyglucoside-based emulsion systems?. in Pharmazie. 2011;66(11):862-870.
doi:10.1691/ph.2011.1066 .
Tasić-Kostov, Marija, Reichl, Stephan, Lukić, Milica, Jaksić, I. N., Savić, Snežana, "Does lactobionic acid affect the colloidal structure and skin moisturizing potential of the alkyl polyglucoside-based emulsion systems?" in Pharmazie, 66, no. 11 (2011):862-870,
https://doi.org/10.1691/ph.2011.1066 . .

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