Does lactobionic acid affect the colloidal structure and skin moisturizing potential of the alkyl polyglucoside-based emulsion systems?

Abstract

Moisturizing creams are the most prescribed products in dermatology, essential in maintaining healthy skin as well as in the topical treatment of some diseases. The irritation potential of commonly used emulsifiers and moisturizing ingredients, but also their mutual interactions, could affect the functionality and safety of those dermopharmaceutics. The aim of this study was to promote moisturizing alkyl polyglucoside (APG)-based emulsion as vehicle for lactobionic acid (LA), advantageous representative of the alphahydroxyacids (AHAs)-multifunctional moisturizers, assessing the safety for use (in vitro acute skin irritation test using cytotoxicity assay compared with in vivo data obtained using skin bioengineering methods) and in vivo moisturizing capacity (bioengineering of the skin). In order to investigate possible interactions between APG mild natural emulsifier-based emulsion and LA, a deeper insight into the colloidal structure of the placebo and the emulsion with LA was given using polarization and transmission electron microscopy, rheology, thermal and texture analysis. This study showed that APG-based emulsions could be promoted as safe cosmetic/dermopharmaceutical vehicles and carriers for extremely acidic and hygroscopic AHA class of actives (specifically LA); prospective safety for human use of both APG and LA with the correlation between in vivo and in vitro findings was shown. However, it was revealed that LA strongly influenced the colloidal structure of the emulsion based on APGs and promoted the formation of lamellar structures which reflects onto the mode of water distribution within the cream. The advantageous skin hydrating potential of LA-containing emulsion vs. placebo was unlikely to be achieved, pointing that emulsions stabilized by lamellar liquid crystalline structures probably are not satisfying carriers for highly hygroscopic actives in order to reach the full moisturizing potential. Safe and effective use on dry skin is presumed.