Physicochemical Characterization and in vivo Skin Performance of a Novel Alkyl Polyglucoside Emulsifier in Natural Cosmetic Cream-Bases
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Alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) are a perfect amphiphilic structure, with excellent surface activity and solubility feature. The aim of this study is to develop a simple system, with a relatively low emulsifier content, composed of materials mainly naturally based and with no additional fatty alcohol. Hydroxystearyl alcohol and Hydroxystearyl glucoside, prepared with Jojoba and Hazelnut oil, medium chain triglycerides with or without Xylitylglucoside and Anhydroxylitol and Xylitol, have been investigated by using microscopy, rheology, thermal analysis, pH and conductimetry. Cyclic stress and in vivo skin irritation tests were also conducted. The investigated natural APG emulsifier has a capacity to form simple and stable emulsions of desirable rheological profile with improved hydration potential and to renew damaged skin, thus it can be safely applied as stabilizer in cosmetic and prospective pharmaceutical cream-bases.
Keywords:Alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier / rheological behavior / cyclic stress test / in vivo skin irritation test / skin hydration
Source:Tetrahedron, 2014, 51, 2, 133-145
- Carl Hanser Verlag, Munich