Objective skin performance evaluation: How mild are APGs to the skin?

Abstract

Emulsion systems are the most common vehicles for topical drugs/cosmetic actives. Absence of skin irritation potential is an important legislative requirement. Overcoming emulsion irritancy is usually achieved by selection of emulsifiers. Alkyl Polyglucoside (APG) emulsifiers, successfully used in cosmetics and popularly labelled as skin- and environmentally friendly, have attracted considerable interest. Non-invasive measurements of biophysical skin parameters, and approved in vitro methods, are used for reliable and objective determination of skin properties. This chapter discusses assessment of the performance of topical emulsions, particularly those based on APG-mixed emulsifiers, and interpretation of the results. Research into the safety and efficacy of APGs indicates that APG surfactants could be used for tailoring mild emulsion vehicles, showing benefits as carriers for actives with an unfavourable skin irritation profile.