‘All-natural’ anti-wrinkle emulsion serum with Acmella oleracea extract: A design of experiments (DoE) formulation approach, rheology and in vivo skin performance/efficacy evaluation
Само за регистроване кориснике
2021
Чланак у часопису (Објављена верзија)
Метаподаци
Приказ свих података о документуАпстракт
Objective: The growing consumers’ preferences and concerns regarding healthy ageing, youthful skin appearance, environmental protection and sustainability have triggered an ever-increasing trend towards natural, eco-friendly and ethically sourced anti-ageing products. Accordingly, this paper describes design and evaluation of novel, safe, effective and high-quality emulsion serums, completely based on ingredients of natural origin, intended for improving facial fine lines and wrinkles. Methods: Model formulations, stabilized by an innovative glycolipid mixed emulsifier (lauryl glucoside/myristyl glucoside/polyglyceryl-6 laurate) and containing Acmella oleracea extract as a model anti-ageing active, were prepared by cold process and fully assessed regarding their rheological behaviour (continuous rotational and oscillatory tests) and physical stability (dynamic-mechanical thermoanalysis – DMTA test). To study and optimize the simultaneous influence of varied formulation factors (emollie...nts and emulsifier concentrations) on critical rheological attributes of the developed serums, a central composite design within ‘design of experiments’ approach was employed. The general skin performance – preliminary safety and anti-wrinkle efficacy of selected model serum, was evaluated in human volunteers, by employing several objective, non-invasive bioengineering techniques. Results: Rheological characterization revealed favourable shear-thinning flow behaviour with yield point, and dominating elastic character (storage modulus G’ > loss modulus G") in both amplitude and frequency sweeps, which together with relatively small structural change obtained in DMTA test indicated overall satisfying rheological and stability properties of formulated serums. From the established design space, and taking into account formulation cost and carbon footprint, promising model serum (desired/optimal apparent viscosity, yield point and loss factor, rather small and constant structural change), containing 15% of emollients and 1% of emulsifier, was chosen for in vivo evaluations. Screening of skin irritation effects revealed the absence of potential irritancy of investigated serum, suggesting overall satisfying skin tolerability/preliminary safety. Silicone skin replica image analysis demonstrated noticeable reduction/improvement in all measured skin wrinkle parameters after only 2 weeks of test serum application in periorbital and perioral areas, indicating its rapid and beneficial effects on the facial expression lines and wrinkles. Conclusion: Altogether, the results corroborate the promising potential of the developed Acmella oleracea extract-loaded emulsion serum as safe, effective and non-invasive natural anti-wrinkle product.
Кључне речи:
claim substantiation / emulsions / formulation/stability / oscillatory rheology / safety testing / skin replicaИзвор:
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2021Издавач:
- John Wiley and Sons Inc
Финансирање / пројекти:
- Министарство науке, технолошког развоја и иновација Републике Србије, институционално финансирање - 200133 (Универзитет у Нишу, Технолошки факултет, Лесковац) (RS-200133)
- Министарство науке, технолошког развоја и иновација Републике Србије, институционално финансирање - 200161 (Универзитет у Београду, Фармацеутски факултет) (RS-200161)
DOI: 10.1111/ics.12726
ISSN: 0142-5463
WoS: 000681092200001
Scopus: 2-s2.0-85111712646
Институција/група
PharmacyTY - JOUR AU - Savić, Sanela AU - Cekić, Nebojša AU - Savić, Saša AU - Ilić, Tanja AU - Savić, Snežana PY - 2021 UR - https://farfar.pharmacy.bg.ac.rs/handle/123456789/3936 AB - Objective: The growing consumers’ preferences and concerns regarding healthy ageing, youthful skin appearance, environmental protection and sustainability have triggered an ever-increasing trend towards natural, eco-friendly and ethically sourced anti-ageing products. Accordingly, this paper describes design and evaluation of novel, safe, effective and high-quality emulsion serums, completely based on ingredients of natural origin, intended for improving facial fine lines and wrinkles. Methods: Model formulations, stabilized by an innovative glycolipid mixed emulsifier (lauryl glucoside/myristyl glucoside/polyglyceryl-6 laurate) and containing Acmella oleracea extract as a model anti-ageing active, were prepared by cold process and fully assessed regarding their rheological behaviour (continuous rotational and oscillatory tests) and physical stability (dynamic-mechanical thermoanalysis – DMTA test). To study and optimize the simultaneous influence of varied formulation factors (emollients and emulsifier concentrations) on critical rheological attributes of the developed serums, a central composite design within ‘design of experiments’ approach was employed. The general skin performance – preliminary safety and anti-wrinkle efficacy of selected model serum, was evaluated in human volunteers, by employing several objective, non-invasive bioengineering techniques. Results: Rheological characterization revealed favourable shear-thinning flow behaviour with yield point, and dominating elastic character (storage modulus G’ > loss modulus G") in both amplitude and frequency sweeps, which together with relatively small structural change obtained in DMTA test indicated overall satisfying rheological and stability properties of formulated serums. From the established design space, and taking into account formulation cost and carbon footprint, promising model serum (desired/optimal apparent viscosity, yield point and loss factor, rather small and constant structural change), containing 15% of emollients and 1% of emulsifier, was chosen for in vivo evaluations. Screening of skin irritation effects revealed the absence of potential irritancy of investigated serum, suggesting overall satisfying skin tolerability/preliminary safety. Silicone skin replica image analysis demonstrated noticeable reduction/improvement in all measured skin wrinkle parameters after only 2 weeks of test serum application in periorbital and perioral areas, indicating its rapid and beneficial effects on the facial expression lines and wrinkles. Conclusion: Altogether, the results corroborate the promising potential of the developed Acmella oleracea extract-loaded emulsion serum as safe, effective and non-invasive natural anti-wrinkle product. PB - John Wiley and Sons Inc T2 - International Journal of Cosmetic Science T1 - ‘All-natural’ anti-wrinkle emulsion serum with Acmella oleracea extract: A design of experiments (DoE) formulation approach, rheology and in vivo skin performance/efficacy evaluation DO - 10.1111/ics.12726 ER -
@article{ author = "Savić, Sanela and Cekić, Nebojša and Savić, Saša and Ilić, Tanja and Savić, Snežana", year = "2021", abstract = "Objective: The growing consumers’ preferences and concerns regarding healthy ageing, youthful skin appearance, environmental protection and sustainability have triggered an ever-increasing trend towards natural, eco-friendly and ethically sourced anti-ageing products. Accordingly, this paper describes design and evaluation of novel, safe, effective and high-quality emulsion serums, completely based on ingredients of natural origin, intended for improving facial fine lines and wrinkles. Methods: Model formulations, stabilized by an innovative glycolipid mixed emulsifier (lauryl glucoside/myristyl glucoside/polyglyceryl-6 laurate) and containing Acmella oleracea extract as a model anti-ageing active, were prepared by cold process and fully assessed regarding their rheological behaviour (continuous rotational and oscillatory tests) and physical stability (dynamic-mechanical thermoanalysis – DMTA test). To study and optimize the simultaneous influence of varied formulation factors (emollients and emulsifier concentrations) on critical rheological attributes of the developed serums, a central composite design within ‘design of experiments’ approach was employed. The general skin performance – preliminary safety and anti-wrinkle efficacy of selected model serum, was evaluated in human volunteers, by employing several objective, non-invasive bioengineering techniques. Results: Rheological characterization revealed favourable shear-thinning flow behaviour with yield point, and dominating elastic character (storage modulus G’ > loss modulus G") in both amplitude and frequency sweeps, which together with relatively small structural change obtained in DMTA test indicated overall satisfying rheological and stability properties of formulated serums. From the established design space, and taking into account formulation cost and carbon footprint, promising model serum (desired/optimal apparent viscosity, yield point and loss factor, rather small and constant structural change), containing 15% of emollients and 1% of emulsifier, was chosen for in vivo evaluations. Screening of skin irritation effects revealed the absence of potential irritancy of investigated serum, suggesting overall satisfying skin tolerability/preliminary safety. Silicone skin replica image analysis demonstrated noticeable reduction/improvement in all measured skin wrinkle parameters after only 2 weeks of test serum application in periorbital and perioral areas, indicating its rapid and beneficial effects on the facial expression lines and wrinkles. Conclusion: Altogether, the results corroborate the promising potential of the developed Acmella oleracea extract-loaded emulsion serum as safe, effective and non-invasive natural anti-wrinkle product.", publisher = "John Wiley and Sons Inc", journal = "International Journal of Cosmetic Science", title = "‘All-natural’ anti-wrinkle emulsion serum with Acmella oleracea extract: A design of experiments (DoE) formulation approach, rheology and in vivo skin performance/efficacy evaluation", doi = "10.1111/ics.12726" }
Savić, S., Cekić, N., Savić, S., Ilić, T.,& Savić, S.. (2021). ‘All-natural’ anti-wrinkle emulsion serum with Acmella oleracea extract: A design of experiments (DoE) formulation approach, rheology and in vivo skin performance/efficacy evaluation. in International Journal of Cosmetic Science John Wiley and Sons Inc.. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12726
Savić S, Cekić N, Savić S, Ilić T, Savić S. ‘All-natural’ anti-wrinkle emulsion serum with Acmella oleracea extract: A design of experiments (DoE) formulation approach, rheology and in vivo skin performance/efficacy evaluation. in International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2021;. doi:10.1111/ics.12726 .
Savić, Sanela, Cekić, Nebojša, Savić, Saša, Ilić, Tanja, Savić, Snežana, "‘All-natural’ anti-wrinkle emulsion serum with Acmella oleracea extract: A design of experiments (DoE) formulation approach, rheology and in vivo skin performance/efficacy evaluation" in International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2021), https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12726 . .